JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

jiminfl wrote:
JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

Whatever.

Having a bad day?

jiminfl wrote:
JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

Watch out, you're cruising for a bipolar rant from him!!

"jiminfl" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm
to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float
switches? How about after 1980? How many were Bayliners?


How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?

Most bilge pumps include an internal float. Can you name any ever used by
Bayliner on their 2150 Cierra Classics that do not?


How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include a 3 way bilge switch at
the helm?
How about after 1980? Can you name *any* Bayliners ever built that do not?



How do you know the boat doesn't leak?

I don't and I never inferred otherwise.


How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?

I did not state it was a DIY project for this particular owner. I stated it
was an easy DIY project.


How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?

He said he would use a portable battery charger using an extension cord. Do
you think that is a safe way to charge a battery over a week on a boat?



You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.


Your attack on me was not justified by anything I posted in this thread and
was sophomoric (actually *Kevinesque*). You successfully turned an good
boating related thread into a personal attack.

I hope you have a relaxing evening Jim and have a better day tomorrow. ;-)

"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


A float switch looks like or similar to
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0
Put the float switch in electrical parallel to the manual switch. Your
manual switch may be on or failed in the one position.

JimH wrote:
"jiminfl" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm
to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float
switches? How about after 1980? How many were Bayliners?


How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?

Most bilge pumps include an internal float. Can you name any ever used by
Bayliner on their 2150 Cierra Classics that do not?


How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include a 3 way bilge switch at
the helm?
How about after 1980? Can you name *any* Bayliners ever built that do not?



How do you know the boat doesn't leak?

I don't and I never inferred otherwise.


How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?

I did not state it was a DIY project for this particular owner. I stated it
was an easy DIY project.


How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?

He said he would use a portable battery charger using an extension cord. Do
you think that is a safe way to charge a battery over a week on a boat?



You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.


Your attack on me was not justified by anything I posted in this thread and
was sophomoric (actually *Kevinesque*). You successfully turned an good
boating related thread into a personal attack.

I hope you have a relaxing evening Jim and have a better day tomorrow. ;-)

And here YOU go adding ANOTHER personal attack......
people in glass houses.....

thanks for all of the responses!!

i can describe the symptoms a little better as i got out last night and
started tinkering...

when i connect the bilge pump to the battery, it emits a low humming
noise. when i put the key in the ignition and turn on the manual bilge
pump, it emits a loud humming noise. when i flip the manual bilge pump
switch off, the low humming noise remains... there is no water by the
pump, either...

what do you guys think?





Calif Bill wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


A float switch looks like or similar to
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0
Put the float switch in electrical parallel to the manual switch. Your
manual switch may be on or failed in the one position.

"kyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for all of the responses!!

i can describe the symptoms a little better as i got out last night and
started tinkering...

when i connect the bilge pump to the battery, it emits a low humming
noise. when i put the key in the ignition and turn on the manual bilge
pump, it emits a loud humming noise. when i flip the manual bilge pump
switch off, the low humming noise remains... there is no water by the
pump, either...

what do you guys think?


There are different types of bilge pumps. The most common type uses either
an internal float switch or is used in conjunction with an externally
mounted float switch. If you have this type, my guess is your float switch
is bad (shorted or stuck)

Another type works on an internal timer and load sensing circuit. It turns
on automatically every so often, runs for a bit and senses how much current
it is drawing. If there is no water and therefore no load, it shuts off
until the next timed cycle. If there is water, the motor draws a bit more
current and it continues to run until the current drops below the setpoint.

If I were you I would invest in a new bilge pump and float of the former
type. I don't care for the automatic, timed ones.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"kyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for all of the responses!!

i can describe the symptoms a little better as i got out last night and
started tinkering...

when i connect the bilge pump to the battery, it emits a low humming
noise. when i put the key in the ignition and turn on the manual bilge
pump, it emits a loud humming noise. when i flip the manual bilge pump
switch off, the low humming noise remains... there is no water by the
pump, either...

what do you guys think?


There are different types of bilge pumps. The most common type uses
either an internal float switch or is used in conjunction with an
externally mounted float switch. If you have this type, my guess is your
float switch is bad (shorted or stuck)

Another type works on an internal timer and load sensing circuit. It
turns on automatically every so often, runs for a bit and senses how much
current it is drawing. If there is no water and therefore no load, it
shuts off until the next timed cycle. If there is water, the motor draws
a bit more current and it continues to run until the current drops below
the setpoint.

If I were you I would invest in a new bilge pump and float of the former
type. I don't care for the automatic, timed ones.

Eisboch

Something hinkey is going on. I suspect that some other device is wired in
series with the pump.
I do like the automatic ones because they can suck more water out of the
bilge and you don't need a float switch. Ideally, if there is room, I would
install a second, larger, conventional pump with a float switch and manual
override. Redundancy is good!
Jim