hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!

"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

kyle wrote:
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?


Here is some picture of the typical bilge pumps.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...man/asc/0/grid



also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!

If you have the manual switch turned off and it is still running,
double check the wiring to the manual switch, you might have them wired
incorrectly.

If you can not find where the fault is and need to replace the pump,
check out these fairly inexpensive bilge pumps.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0001/304/75/11


Considering the expense and inconvenience of a bilge pump not working
when you need it to, it is very cheap insurance.

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and the
owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and the
owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



I think every boat on our dock has their boat plug in to an electrical
outlet right along side their boat. Not only to run the battery
charger, but also to run lights, stove etc while they are at the dock.
Since I use very little electricity, I get billed a nominal fee for the
use of the outlet, $5/month.

The Corp of Engineers required a certified electrician to do the wiring
to the outlets to make sure it is properly grounded. All extension cord
must screw into the outlet and the boat so it won't get pulled out of
the socket, but I have never had a problem with electrolysis. I check
my zincs annually, and they are always in great shape.

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

JimH wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

Eisboch didn't even come close to saying that electrolysis wouldn't
happen. He said it could be controlled so that it's minimal, and it
can. With it being correctly controlled, it's a hell of a lot better
than sinking the boat. Did you ask your electrical engineer whether
he'd rather control electrolysis or have his boat sink because the
battery ran down??

"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


If this is the only thing wrong with your new boat then congratulations are
in order. You got a great deal.

A bilge pump shouldn't kill the battery in a week. The easiest thing for you
to do is get a fully automatic bilge pump and wire it directly to the
battery thru a waterproof fuseholder and fuse.
You need to consider the diameter of the existing hose and available space
for mounting the pump at the low point in the bilge.

Think about having a mooring cover made for the boat. It keeps the boat
cleaner, drier, and to some degree, safer from theft and vandalism.

Think about dual switched batteries. Every boat with an engine should have
them; IMO.
Jim

"Jim" wrote in message
ink.net...

"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


If this is the only thing wrong with your new boat then congratulations
are in order. You got a great deal.

A bilge pump shouldn't kill the battery in a week. The easiest thing for
you to do is get a fully automatic bilge pump and wire it directly to the
battery thru a waterproof fuseholder and fuse.
You need to consider the diameter of the existing hose and available space
for mounting the pump at the low point in the bilge.

Think about having a mooring cover made for the boat. It keeps the boat
cleaner, drier, and to some degree, safer from theft and vandalism.

Think about dual switched batteries. Every boat with an engine should have
them; IMO.
Jim



Just to add to the subject ... JimH had a point about the portable battery
charger. Most of them recommend removing the battery from the boat before
charging ... I suspect due to the potential of any gas fumes and sparks when
hooking up the portable charger. Built-in chargers that are hardwired to
the batteries are a different story and are what most boats on slips are
equipped with.

Eisboch

basskisser wrote:
JimH wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.

Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch


Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

Eisboch didn't even come close to saying that electrolysis wouldn't
happen. He said it could be controlled so that it's minimal, and it
can. With it being correctly controlled, it's a hell of a lot better
than sinking the boat. Did you ask your electrical engineer whether
he'd rather control electrolysis or have his boat sink because the
battery ran down??


If the original poster was thinking of using a non marine portable
charger, and running ordinary extension cords from an electrical outlet
not properly grounded, and exposed to the elements, that would not only
not be prudent and but it could be deadly. Electrolysis could be the
least of his problems.

If he has his electrical outlet properly installed for marine
environment, and is using a marine shore power extension cord, it really
should not be a problem. David Pascoe article was emphasizing what you
need to do to use electricity safely in a marina, and what can happen if
people do not have their electrical systems properly grounded. I don't
know why, but I have NEVER had a problem with my zincs or the outdrive
corroding or showing any signs of electrolysis. If I did, I would
contract the marina immediately so they could track down the boat
causing the problem.