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A description of the Seattle waterfront
Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off
chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. In April of 1851, nine members of the Denny family left Cherry Grove Illinois to seek a new life in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Arthur Denney led his three brothers, his father and stepmother, his pregnant wife (who was also his stepsister), as well as a younger stepsister and stepbrother (Louisa and Carson Boren) on the westward trek. A man named John Low joined them along the trail. The party split up in western Oregon, with Denny's two older brothers and parents starting farms in the rich alluvial soil in the Willamette flood plain. Arthur, his wife, his younger brother David Denny, the Borens and Low wanted to found a town. The group had heard that Puget Sound offered some promising locations for such an enterprise. The portion of the Denny party that chose not to farm near the Willamette arrived in Portland on August 22. Arthur's wife, Mary Ann, was too close to delivering her baby to safely travel any farther. John Low and David Denny traveled north to Puget Sound to scout the territory, while Arthur, Mary Ann and the rest of the group remained in Portland. David Denny and Low were joined en route by Leander Terry, and the three eventually agreed that the SW point of Elliott Bay was ideally suited for a town site. By September 28, 1851, David Denny, Low, and Terry had each staked claims in a community to be called "New York Alki"; ("alki" was a Native word for "eventually"). Low returned to Portland to retrieve the rest of the party, to which an emigrant farmer named William Bell as well as his wife and a Leander Terry's brother, Charlie, had been additionally recruited. David Denny began building a log cabin. The party from Portland booked passage to Puget Sound on the schooner "Exact" and landed at Alki on November 5. David Denny's cabin had no roof, the November rains were falling, and the first order of business was completing the shelter. The party of about a dozen pioneers would spend the winter in very cramped quarters. Arthur Denny was not pleased that Leander Terry, John Low, and his younger brother David had claimed all of the most promising land surrounding New York Alki prior to his arrival. Perhaps it was "cabin fever" that inspired the Denny party to divide again in the spring, with Arthur Denny persuading his stepbrother Carson Boren and William Bell to relocate. The three staked claims on the eastern shoreline of the bay near Piner's Point. The original shoreline of Seattle was several blocks inland from its current configuration and long-gone Piner's Point is now rarely mentioned. In 1852, a small stream and meadow at Piner's Point would become the site of Henry Yesler's steam powered sawmill, and the general vicinity is known today as Pioneer Square. So began the Seattle waterfront. Within a few years, Charlie Terry bought out Leander Terry and John Low's interest in the New York Alki properties and moved across the bay to Seattle. A devastating fire followed by an optimistic rebuild, a frustrated attempt to become the western terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, a gold rush, and the steady growth of maritime trade shaped City's destiny. Beyond a fill comprised of garbage, sawdust, and the millions of tons of soil sluiced down from "regrades" of the surrounding hills a mile of steam ship piers and a railroad switch yard emerged along Railroad Avenue, (later renamed Alaska Way). At the turn of the last century, most passengers and freight moved around Puget Sound aboard the steam powered ferries of the "Mosquito Fleet" but private yachts were exceptionally rare. The waterfront of the largest city on Puget Sound developed without any reasonable provision for mooring a small pleasure boat. Prior to the mid-1990's, the only moorage for pleasure boats along the Seattle waterfront was some rickety old floats at the Washington Street Pier. Boaters were subjected to constant ferry wakes. From a vacant park to the immediate south, resident street drunks would deliver a barrage of empty bottles and profanity. The air smelled of rotting human waste. Few people ever docked there, and even fewer would dock there more than once. The Port of Seattle developed Bell Harbor Marina (named after nearby Bell Street as well as pioneer farmer William Bell) at Seattle's Pier 66, and in 1996 Seattle finally had a top caliber downtown marina to accommodate visiting boaters. The entrance to Bell Harbor Marina is near 47.36.54 N and 122.20.81 W. There are few hazards in Elliott Bay beyond the obvious presence of some large commercial vessels and two busy ferry routes. Boaters arriving in Seattle from the south will want to give the shoals at Duwamish Head a generous berth, a task easily accomplished with the aid of any appropriately scaled chart. NOAA chart #18450 is a good choice when navigating in this area. Humongous cruise ships berth along the outside of the breakwater every Saturday during the Alaskan cruise season and will provide an excellent landmark. A tall sculpture with a high spire is located at the access point to provide a visual reference during the rest of the year. The entrance is a "blind corner", so proceeding on a slow bell and sounding the horn are reasonable precautions when entering or exiting. Reservations are available up to two years in advance, and the marina staff will place a red and white "reserved" sign on spaces that aren't available for use by transient vessels. Bell Harbor is a favorite destination for many yacht clubs located in the north and south sound regions, and the Port of Seattle conducts annual drawings to award reservations among the multiple cruising groups often seeking reservations for specific holiday weekends. The dock nearest the gangway is always reserved for members of the Muckleshoot Nation. Once tied to the wide and stable floats, boaters should report to the moorage office at the head of the gangway. Guest moorage rates in 2007 vary from $1.00- $1.50/foot/day depending upon the season of the year and the size of the vessel. (Boats over 50- feet generally pay 25-cents/foot more than smaller craft). A lunch or dinner stop of 0-4 hours is a flat $10 for any boat, regardless of length. 30-amp shorepower is $3 per day, with either 50 or 100-amp service available at some slips for $10 per day. Security is not a major issue, even in this urban environment. No one can enter or leave the marina without passing a check point with a locked gate, and banks of cameras allow the congenial marina staff to keep a continuous eye on the docks. Bell Harbor is most definitely a metropolitan marina. The Highway 99 viaduct, with a 24-hour flow of traffic, seems to hover immediately above the basin. Busy Alaska Way with a nonstop stream of tourists and strolling locals overlooks the floats. The railroad tracks are less than 200 yards away, and mile long freight trains thunder through the district on a regular basis. Even the heaving metal plates suspended under the cruise ship pier to form the marina's breakwater seem compelled to join the discordant cacophony; they creak and groan as would a rusted and riveted clockwork sea lion. Few boaters need be unduly concerned about sleeping through all of this waterfront racket. Anybody taking part in even a fraction of the scores of activities within a 20 minute walk of the marina will be so joyously exhausted at the end of the day that falling and staying asleep won't be much of a challenge. The Odyssey Maritime Discovery Center is located at Bell Harbor. The museum and interactive exposition is easily worth the modest admission as well as the allocation of 90-minutes or so to poke around among the fascinating exhibits. Sandwiches, beverages, and convenience groceries are available from the Bell Street Deli, while the Anthony's restaurant chain operates three restaurants at this location. Anthony's Pier 66 is on the upper floor of the restaurant building, and offers above average food at above average prices in a reasonably dressy atmosphere. Jan and I have often dined at the more casual Bell Street Diner on the lower floor, where the above average food at about average prices is apparently prepared in the same kitchen as the supposedly more glamorous choices available upstairs. Boaters seeking quick and tasty hot food might enjoy Anthony's Fish and Chips bar, fronting the sidewalk along Alaska Way. The Pike Place Market and Seattle Aquarium are easily accessible from Pier 66. The waterfront street car line is temporarily out of service, but a city bus stops at the marina several times an hour and then follows the old street car route to the nightlife, galleries, and bookstores of historic Pioneer Square as well as the exotic atmosphere of the International District (aka "Chinatown"). Fans of the Seattle Seahawks or Mariners can arrive in Seattle by boat, take a short bus or taxi ride to the game, and return to (hopefully) celebrate aboard the boat before cruising back to homeport the following day. The countless upscale shopping opportunities in downtown department stores and specialty shops are a moderate walk or short taxi ride from Bell Harbor. A climb up the stairs next to the Odyssey Maritime Center and use of the pedestrian overpass to cross Alaska Way will bring a strolling boater to the edge of Seattle's bohemian Belltown district. Belltown is the approximate site of the land staked out by William Bell after he left New York Alki with the Piner's Point portion of the Denny party. Bell's original claim was on land that was sluiced away in the "Denny Regrade" process that moderated the steep terrain immediately north of the downtown business area. Bell surveyed his holdings separately from those of the Denny family and Doc Maynard farther south, naming Virginia and Olive Streets for his two daughters and Stewart Street for son-in-law Joseph Stewart. During the 1980's and 90's, Belltown became a gathering place for avant garde artists and musicians. Skyrocketing real estate values in Belltown have priced out some of the former hipster art galleries, but the atmosphere remains eclectic and some of the most interesting restaurants in Seattle can be found in this community. A significant and newly opened attraction sure to be of interest to many visitors to Seattle is the Seattle Art Museum Sculpture Park. The park is located just beyond Pier 70, about 6 blocks north of the marina and no more than a 10-minute walk for most adults. The saunter between the marina and the sculpture park pulses with contrasts along the century old seawall. Across Alaska Way are the railroad tracks, and most middle-aged Seattle natives will recall a time when each pier was served by an individual spur line. Burly longshoremen would wheel or carry break bulk cargo from the holds of ships and into the long warehouses on every pier. Cargo is now either so specialized or containerized that the warehouses became obsolete several decades ago and have been converted to tourist malls or removed entirely. The 1950's viaduct, originally constructed to elevate traffic above the long-gone railroad spurs below, speaks for its decade. Offices for the Clipper Navigation Company and relatively recently arrived Norwegian Caribbean Cruise Lines are immediately north of Bell Harbor marina. En route to the sculpture park a visitor also passes the Edgewater Hotel (a relic of the early 1960's), and the classic façade of Pier 70 (which was "yuppified" in the 1970's). The sculpture park is open to the public and there is no charge for admission. Installations include a variety of modern and abstract shapes and forms, with some traditional forms expressed in unique scale or intriguingly juxtaposed with other objects. My favorite piece is a glass wall along the pedestrian bridge. Vivid colors swirl and merge between panels of glass, suggesting both a sunset sky and the biologically rich eddies of a shoreline tide pool. The entire piece is covered with perfectly aligned rows of uniformly shaped clear spots, and when one views the glass wall looking toward the south the skyline of Seattle, (featuring a million carefully aligned clear spots we call "windows") is colored by the flowing stream of random organic shapes and hues. This glass piece almost had to be installed in this specific location, and would be much less effective without the surrounding environment. Where it stands, it can address the idea that Seattle is collection of the works of man, yet still delightfully overwhelmed by the influences of sea and sky. The Olympic Sculpture Park places a visitor at a vortex where several eras converge. Traces of industrial activity are still within close proximity, while rectangular blocks of modern condominiums climb ever higher around construction cranes almost like pea vines scale a trellis. The wildly imaginary forms of the sculptures contrast distinctively with the practical shapes of functional residential and commercial structures. A glance to the east will bring the Space Needle into view, now almost a comic symbol of the predictions for life in the 21st Century that were themes of the Seattle World's Fair held 45 years ago. Instead of flying cars, George Jetson buildings on useless stilts, meals in a pill, and robot butlers in every home we have the wonderful, chaotic, enthralling, distressing, and still somehow promising mixture of times, places, and especially people that constitutes our modern reality. Perhaps it's my advancing age, but I'd rather live in times as they are than in any of the fantasy environments we were promised during the Century 21 Exposition. There is no shortage of things to see and do in downtown Seattle, and Bell Harbor Marina provides excellent access for visiting boaters. |
#2
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
Wow. 4000 words by my estimate. What do you say, Harry?
Florida Jim "Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. In April of 1851, nine members of the Denny family left Cherry Grove Illinois to seek a new life in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Arthur Denney led his three brothers, his father and stepmother, his pregnant wife (who was also his stepsister), as well as a younger stepsister and stepbrother (Louisa and Carson Boren) on the westward trek. A man named John Low joined them along the trail. The party split up in western Oregon, with Denny's two older brothers and parents starting farms in the rich alluvial soil in the Willamette flood plain. Arthur, his wife, his younger brother David Denny, the Borens and Low wanted to found a town. The group had heard that Puget Sound offered some promising locations for such an enterprise. The portion of the Denny party that chose not to farm near the Willamette arrived in Portland on August 22. Arthur's wife, Mary Ann, was too close to delivering her baby to safely travel any farther. John Low and David Denny traveled north to Puget Sound to scout the territory, while Arthur, Mary Ann and the rest of the group remained in Portland. David Denny and Low were joined en route by Leander Terry, and the three eventually agreed that the SW point of Elliott Bay was ideally suited for a town site. By September 28, 1851, David Denny, Low, and Terry had each staked claims in a community to be called "New York Alki"; ("alki" was a Native word for "eventually"). Low returned to Portland to retrieve the rest of the party, to which an emigrant farmer named William Bell as well as his wife and a Leander Terry's brother, Charlie, had been additionally recruited. David Denny began building a log cabin. The party from Portland booked passage to Puget Sound on the schooner "Exact" and landed at Alki on November 5. David Denny's cabin had no roof, the November rains were falling, and the first order of business was completing the shelter. The party of about a dozen pioneers would spend the winter in very cramped quarters. Arthur Denny was not pleased that Leander Terry, John Low, and his younger brother David had claimed all of the most promising land surrounding New York Alki prior to his arrival. Perhaps it was "cabin fever" that inspired the Denny party to divide again in the spring, with Arthur Denny persuading his stepbrother Carson Boren and William Bell to relocate. The three staked claims on the eastern shoreline of the bay near Piner's Point. The original shoreline of Seattle was several blocks inland from its current configuration and long-gone Piner's Point is now rarely mentioned. In 1852, a small stream and meadow at Piner's Point would become the site of Henry Yesler's steam powered sawmill, and the general vicinity is known today as Pioneer Square. So began the Seattle waterfront. Within a few years, Charlie Terry bought out Leander Terry and John Low's interest in the New York Alki properties and moved across the bay to Seattle. A devastating fire followed by an optimistic rebuild, a frustrated attempt to become the western terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, a gold rush, and the steady growth of maritime trade shaped City's destiny. Beyond a fill comprised of garbage, sawdust, and the millions of tons of soil sluiced down from "regrades" of the surrounding hills a mile of steam ship piers and a railroad switch yard emerged along Railroad Avenue, (later renamed Alaska Way). At the turn of the last century, most passengers and freight moved around Puget Sound aboard the steam powered ferries of the "Mosquito Fleet" but private yachts were exceptionally rare. The waterfront of the largest city on Puget Sound developed without any reasonable provision for mooring a small pleasure boat. Prior to the mid-1990's, the only moorage for pleasure boats along the Seattle waterfront was some rickety old floats at the Washington Street Pier. Boaters were subjected to constant ferry wakes. From a vacant park to the immediate south, resident street drunks would deliver a barrage of empty bottles and profanity. The air smelled of rotting human waste. Few people ever docked there, and even fewer would dock there more than once. The Port of Seattle developed Bell Harbor Marina (named after nearby Bell Street as well as pioneer farmer William Bell) at Seattle's Pier 66, and in 1996 Seattle finally had a top caliber downtown marina to accommodate visiting boaters. The entrance to Bell Harbor Marina is near 47.36.54 N and 122.20.81 W. There are few hazards in Elliott Bay beyond the obvious presence of some large commercial vessels and two busy ferry routes. Boaters arriving in Seattle from the south will want to give the shoals at Duwamish Head a generous berth, a task easily accomplished with the aid of any appropriately scaled chart. NOAA chart #18450 is a good choice when navigating in this area. Humongous cruise ships berth along the outside of the breakwater every Saturday during the Alaskan cruise season and will provide an excellent landmark. A tall sculpture with a high spire is located at the access point to provide a visual reference during the rest of the year. The entrance is a "blind corner", so proceeding on a slow bell and sounding the horn are reasonable precautions when entering or exiting. Reservations are available up to two years in advance, and the marina staff will place a red and white "reserved" sign on spaces that aren't available for use by transient vessels. Bell Harbor is a favorite destination for many yacht clubs located in the north and south sound regions, and the Port of Seattle conducts annual drawings to award reservations among the multiple cruising groups often seeking reservations for specific holiday weekends. The dock nearest the gangway is always reserved for members of the Muckleshoot Nation. Once tied to the wide and stable floats, boaters should report to the moorage office at the head of the gangway. Guest moorage rates in 2007 vary from $1.00- $1.50/foot/day depending upon the season of the year and the size of the vessel. (Boats over 50- feet generally pay 25-cents/foot more than smaller craft). A lunch or dinner stop of 0-4 hours is a flat $10 for any boat, regardless of length. 30-amp shorepower is $3 per day, with either 50 or 100-amp service available at some slips for $10 per day. Security is not a major issue, even in this urban environment. No one can enter or leave the marina without passing a check point with a locked gate, and banks of cameras allow the congenial marina staff to keep a continuous eye on the docks. Bell Harbor is most definitely a metropolitan marina. The Highway 99 viaduct, with a 24-hour flow of traffic, seems to hover immediately above the basin. Busy Alaska Way with a nonstop stream of tourists and strolling locals overlooks the floats. The railroad tracks are less than 200 yards away, and mile long freight trains thunder through the district on a regular basis. Even the heaving metal plates suspended under the cruise ship pier to form the marina's breakwater seem compelled to join the discordant cacophony; they creak and groan as would a rusted and riveted clockwork sea lion. Few boaters need be unduly concerned about sleeping through all of this waterfront racket. Anybody taking part in even a fraction of the scores of activities within a 20 minute walk of the marina will be so joyously exhausted at the end of the day that falling and staying asleep won't be much of a challenge. The Odyssey Maritime Discovery Center is located at Bell Harbor. The museum and interactive exposition is easily worth the modest admission as well as the allocation of 90-minutes or so to poke around among the fascinating exhibits. Sandwiches, beverages, and convenience groceries are available from the Bell Street Deli, while the Anthony's restaurant chain operates three restaurants at this location. Anthony's Pier 66 is on the upper floor of the restaurant building, and offers above average food at above average prices in a reasonably dressy atmosphere. Jan and I have often dined at the more casual Bell Street Diner on the lower floor, where the above average food at about average prices is apparently prepared in the same kitchen as the supposedly more glamorous choices available upstairs. Boaters seeking quick and tasty hot food might enjoy Anthony's Fish and Chips bar, fronting the sidewalk along Alaska Way. The Pike Place Market and Seattle Aquarium are easily accessible from Pier 66. The waterfront street car line is temporarily out of service, but a city bus stops at the marina several times an hour and then follows the old street car route to the nightlife, galleries, and bookstores of historic Pioneer Square as well as the exotic atmosphere of the International District (aka "Chinatown"). Fans of the Seattle Seahawks or Mariners can arrive in Seattle by boat, take a short bus or taxi ride to the game, and return to (hopefully) celebrate aboard the boat before cruising back to homeport the following day. The countless upscale shopping opportunities in downtown department stores and specialty shops are a moderate walk or short taxi ride from Bell Harbor. A climb up the stairs next to the Odyssey Maritime Center and use of the pedestrian overpass to cross Alaska Way will bring a strolling boater to the edge of Seattle's bohemian Belltown district. Belltown is the approximate site of the land staked out by William Bell after he left New York Alki with the Piner's Point portion of the Denny party. Bell's original claim was on land that was sluiced away in the "Denny Regrade" process that moderated the steep terrain immediately north of the downtown business area. Bell surveyed his holdings separately from those of the Denny family and Doc Maynard farther south, naming Virginia and Olive Streets for his two daughters and Stewart Street for son-in-law Joseph Stewart. During the 1980's and 90's, Belltown became a gathering place for avant garde artists and musicians. Skyrocketing real estate values in Belltown have priced out some of the former hipster art galleries, but the atmosphere remains eclectic and some of the most interesting restaurants in Seattle can be found in this community. A significant and newly opened attraction sure to be of interest to many visitors to Seattle is the Seattle Art Museum Sculpture Park. The park is located just beyond Pier 70, about 6 blocks north of the marina and no more than a 10-minute walk for most adults. The saunter between the marina and the sculpture park pulses with contrasts along the century old seawall. Across Alaska Way are the railroad tracks, and most middle-aged Seattle natives will recall a time when each pier was served by an individual spur line. Burly longshoremen would wheel or carry break bulk cargo from the holds of ships and into the long warehouses on every pier. Cargo is now either so specialized or containerized that the warehouses became obsolete several decades ago and have been converted to tourist malls or removed entirely. The 1950's viaduct, originally constructed to elevate traffic above the long-gone railroad spurs below, speaks for its decade. Offices for the Clipper Navigation Company and relatively recently arrived Norwegian Caribbean Cruise Lines are immediately north of Bell Harbor marina. En route to the sculpture park a visitor also passes the Edgewater Hotel (a relic of the early 1960's), and the classic façade of Pier 70 (which was "yuppified" in the 1970's). The sculpture park is open to the public and there is no charge for admission. Installations include a variety of modern and abstract shapes and forms, with some traditional forms expressed in unique scale or intriguingly juxtaposed with other objects. My favorite piece is a glass wall along the pedestrian bridge. Vivid colors swirl and merge between panels of glass, suggesting both a sunset sky and the biologically rich eddies of a shoreline tide pool. The entire piece is covered with perfectly aligned rows of uniformly shaped clear spots, and when one views the glass wall looking toward the south the skyline of Seattle, (featuring a million carefully aligned clear spots we call "windows") is colored by the flowing stream of random organic shapes and hues. This glass piece almost had to be installed in this specific location, and would be much less effective without the surrounding environment. Where it stands, it can address the idea that Seattle is collection of the works of man, yet still delightfully overwhelmed by the influences of sea and sky. The Olympic Sculpture Park places a visitor at a vortex where several eras converge. Traces of industrial activity are still within close proximity, while rectangular blocks of modern condominiums climb ever higher around construction cranes almost like pea vines scale a trellis. The wildly imaginary forms of the sculptures contrast distinctively with the practical shapes of functional residential and commercial structures. A glance to the east will bring the Space Needle into view, now almost a comic symbol of the predictions for life in the 21st Century that were themes of the Seattle World's Fair held 45 years ago. Instead of flying cars, George Jetson buildings on useless stilts, meals in a pill, and robot butlers in every home we have the wonderful, chaotic, enthralling, distressing, and still somehow promising mixture of times, places, and especially people that constitutes our modern reality. Perhaps it's my advancing age, but I'd rather live in times as they are than in any of the fantasy environments we were promised during the Century 21 Exposition. There is no shortage of things to see and do in downtown Seattle, and Bell Harbor Marina provides excellent access for visiting boaters. |
#3
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
Jim wrote:
Wow. 4000 words by my estimate. What do you say, Harry? Florida Jim "Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. Sheesh...that would require me to look a bit more closely...I'd say about half that...around 2000-2100 words. I really don't know why anyone boats "for pleasure" up there, but I know a lot of people do. Even where I grew up in New England, "boating weather" was bathing suit weather, and the water temps in Long Island Sound were not bad from June through Labor Day. Not so in Seattle. Rain, cloudy, cold weather. If I lived there, I'd had a totally different hobby. |
#4
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
"Harry Krause" wrote in message ... Jim wrote: Wow. 4000 words by my estimate. What do you say, Harry? Florida Jim "Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. Sheesh...that would require me to look a bit more closely...I'd say about half that...around 2000-2100 words. I really don't know why anyone boats "for pleasure" up there, but I know a lot of people do. Even where I grew up in New England, "boating weather" was bathing suit weather, and the water temps in Long Island Sound were not bad from June through Labor Day. Not so in Seattle. Rain, cloudy, cold weather. If I lived there, I'd had a totally different hobby. 2322.... |
#5
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
"Harry Krause" wrote in message ... Jim wrote: . If I lived there, I'd had a totally different hobby. Onanism? |
#6
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. In April of 1851, nine members of the Denny family left Cherry Grove Illinois to seek a new life in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Arthur Denney led his three brothers, his father and stepmother, his pregnant wife (who was also his stepsister), as well as a younger stepsister and stepbrother (Louisa and Carson Boren) on the westward trek. A man named John Low joined them along the trail. The party split up in western Oregon, with Denny's two older brothers and parents starting farms in the rich alluvial soil in the Willamette flood plain. Arthur, his wife, his younger brother David Denny, the Borens and Low wanted to found a town. The group had heard that Puget Sound offered some promising locations for such an enterprise. The portion of the Denny party that chose not to farm near the Willamette arrived in Portland on August 22. Arthur's wife, Mary Ann, was too close to delivering her baby to safely travel any farther. John Low and David Denny traveled north to Puget Sound to scout the territory, while Arthur, Mary Ann and the rest of the group remained in Portland. David Denny and Low were joined en route by Leander Terry, and the three eventually agreed that the SW point of Elliott Bay was ideally suited for a town site. By September 28, 1851, David Denny, Low, and Terry had each staked claims in a community to be called "New York Alki"; ("alki" was a Native word for "eventually"). Low returned to Portland to retrieve the rest of the party, to which an emigrant farmer named William Bell as well as his wife and a Leander Terry's brother, Charlie, had been additionally recruited. David Denny began building a log cabin. The party from Portland booked passage to Puget Sound on the schooner "Exact" and landed at Alki on November 5. David Denny's cabin had no roof, the November rains were falling, and the first order of business was completing the shelter. The party of about a dozen pioneers would spend the winter in very cramped quarters. Arthur Denny was not pleased that Leander Terry, John Low, and his younger brother David had claimed all of the most promising land surrounding New York Alki prior to his arrival. Perhaps it was "cabin fever" that inspired the Denny party to divide again in the spring, with Arthur Denny persuading his stepbrother Carson Boren and William Bell to relocate. The three staked claims on the eastern shoreline of the bay near Piner's Point. The original shoreline of Seattle was several blocks inland from its current configuration and long-gone Piner's Point is now rarely mentioned. In 1852, a small stream and meadow at Piner's Point would become the site of Henry Yesler's steam powered sawmill, and the general vicinity is known today as Pioneer Square. So began the Seattle waterfront. Within a few years, Charlie Terry bought out Leander Terry and John Low's interest in the New York Alki properties and moved across the bay to Seattle. A devastating fire followed by an optimistic rebuild, a frustrated attempt to become the western terminus of the Northern Pacific railroad, a gold rush, and the steady growth of maritime trade shaped City's destiny. Beyond a fill comprised of garbage, sawdust, and the millions of tons of soil sluiced down from "regrades" of the surrounding hills a mile of steam ship piers and a railroad switch yard emerged along Railroad Avenue, (later renamed Alaska Way). At the turn of the last century, most passengers and freight moved around Puget Sound aboard the steam powered ferries of the "Mosquito Fleet" but private yachts were exceptionally rare. The waterfront of the largest city on Puget Sound developed without any reasonable provision for mooring a small pleasure boat. Prior to the mid-1990's, the only moorage for pleasure boats along the Seattle waterfront was some rickety old floats at the Washington Street Pier. Boaters were subjected to constant ferry wakes. From a vacant park to the immediate south, resident street drunks would deliver a barrage of empty bottles and profanity. The air smelled of rotting human waste. Few people ever docked there, and even fewer would dock there more than once. The Port of Seattle developed Bell Harbor Marina (named after nearby Bell Street as well as pioneer farmer William Bell) at Seattle's Pier 66, and in 1996 Seattle finally had a top caliber downtown marina to accommodate visiting boaters. The entrance to Bell Harbor Marina is near 47.36.54 N and 122.20.81 W. There are few hazards in Elliott Bay beyond the obvious presence of some large commercial vessels and two busy ferry routes. Boaters arriving in Seattle from the south will want to give the shoals at Duwamish Head a generous berth, a task easily accomplished with the aid of any appropriately scaled chart. NOAA chart #18450 is a good choice when navigating in this area. Humongous cruise ships berth along the outside of the breakwater every Saturday during the Alaskan cruise season and will provide an excellent landmark. A tall sculpture with a high spire is located at the access point to provide a visual reference during the rest of the year. The entrance is a "blind corner", so proceeding on a slow bell and sounding the horn are reasonable precautions when entering or exiting. Reservations are available up to two years in advance, and the marina staff will place a red and white "reserved" sign on spaces that aren't available for use by transient vessels. Bell Harbor is a favorite destination for many yacht clubs located in the north and south sound regions, and the Port of Seattle conducts annual drawings to award reservations among the multiple cruising groups often seeking reservations for specific holiday weekends. The dock nearest the gangway is always reserved for members of the Muckleshoot Nation. Once tied to the wide and stable floats, boaters should report to the moorage office at the head of the gangway. Guest moorage rates in 2007 vary from $1.00- $1.50/foot/day depending upon the season of the year and the size of the vessel. (Boats over 50- feet generally pay 25-cents/foot more than smaller craft). A lunch or dinner stop of 0-4 hours is a flat $10 for any boat, regardless of length. 30-amp shorepower is $3 per day, with either 50 or 100-amp service available at some slips for $10 per day. Security is not a major issue, even in this urban environment. No one can enter or leave the marina without passing a check point with a locked gate, and banks of cameras allow the congenial marina staff to keep a continuous eye on the docks. Bell Harbor is most definitely a metropolitan marina. The Highway 99 viaduct, with a 24-hour flow of traffic, seems to hover immediately above the basin. Busy Alaska Way with a nonstop stream of tourists and strolling locals overlooks the floats. The railroad tracks are less than 200 yards away, and mile long freight trains thunder through the district on a regular basis. Even the heaving metal plates suspended under the cruise ship pier to form the marina's breakwater seem compelled to join the discordant cacophony; they creak and groan as would a rusted and riveted clockwork sea lion. Few boaters need be unduly concerned about sleeping through all of this waterfront racket. Anybody taking part in even a fraction of the scores of activities within a 20 minute walk of the marina will be so joyously exhausted at the end of the day that falling and staying asleep won't be much of a challenge. The Odyssey Maritime Discovery Center is located at Bell Harbor. The museum and interactive exposition is easily worth the modest admission as well as the allocation of 90-minutes or so to poke around among the fascinating exhibits. Sandwiches, beverages, and convenience groceries are available from the Bell Street Deli, while the Anthony's restaurant chain operates three restaurants at this location. Anthony's Pier 66 is on the upper floor of the restaurant building, and offers above average food at above average prices in a reasonably dressy atmosphere. Jan and I have often dined at the more casual Bell Street Diner on the lower floor, where the above average food at about average prices is apparently prepared in the same kitchen as the supposedly more glamorous choices available upstairs. Boaters seeking quick and tasty hot food might enjoy Anthony's Fish and Chips bar, fronting the sidewalk along Alaska Way. The Pike Place Market and Seattle Aquarium are easily accessible from Pier 66. The waterfront street car line is temporarily out of service, but a city bus stops at the marina several times an hour and then follows the old street car route to the nightlife, galleries, and bookstores of historic Pioneer Square as well as the exotic atmosphere of the International District (aka "Chinatown"). Fans of the Seattle Seahawks or Mariners can arrive in Seattle by boat, take a short bus or taxi ride to the game, and return to (hopefully) celebrate aboard the boat before cruising back to homeport the following day. The countless upscale shopping opportunities in downtown department stores and specialty shops are a moderate walk or short taxi ride from Bell Harbor. A climb up the stairs next to the Odyssey Maritime Center and use of the pedestrian overpass to cross Alaska Way will bring a strolling boater to the edge of Seattle's bohemian Belltown district. Belltown is the approximate site of the land staked out by William Bell after he left New York Alki with the Piner's Point portion of the Denny party. Bell's original claim was on land that was sluiced away in the "Denny Regrade" process that moderated the steep terrain immediately north of the downtown business area. Bell surveyed his holdings separately from those of the Denny family and Doc Maynard farther south, naming Virginia and Olive Streets for his two daughters and Stewart Street for son-in-law Joseph Stewart. During the 1980's and 90's, Belltown became a gathering place for avant garde artists and musicians. Skyrocketing real estate values in Belltown have priced out some of the former hipster art galleries, but the atmosphere remains eclectic and some of the most interesting restaurants in Seattle can be found in this community. A significant and newly opened attraction sure to be of interest to many visitors to Seattle is the Seattle Art Museum Sculpture Park. The park is located just beyond Pier 70, about 6 blocks north of the marina and no more than a 10-minute walk for most adults. The saunter between the marina and the sculpture park pulses with contrasts along the century old seawall. Across Alaska Way are the railroad tracks, and most middle-aged Seattle natives will recall a time when each pier was served by an individual spur line. Burly longshoremen would wheel or carry break bulk cargo from the holds of ships and into the long warehouses on every pier. Cargo is now either so specialized or containerized that the warehouses became obsolete several decades ago and have been converted to tourist malls or removed entirely. The 1950's viaduct, originally constructed to elevate traffic above the long-gone railroad spurs below, speaks for its decade. Offices for the Clipper Navigation Company and relatively recently arrived Norwegian Caribbean Cruise Lines are immediately north of Bell Harbor marina. En route to the sculpture park a visitor also passes the Edgewater Hotel (a relic of the early 1960's), and the classic façade of Pier 70 (which was "yuppified" in the 1970's). The sculpture park is open to the public and there is no charge for admission. Installations include a variety of modern and abstract shapes and forms, with some traditional forms expressed in unique scale or intriguingly juxtaposed with other objects. My favorite piece is a glass wall along the pedestrian bridge. Vivid colors swirl and merge between panels of glass, suggesting both a sunset sky and the biologically rich eddies of a shoreline tide pool. The entire piece is covered with perfectly aligned rows of uniformly shaped clear spots, and when one views the glass wall looking toward the south the skyline of Seattle, (featuring a million carefully aligned clear spots we call "windows") is colored by the flowing stream of random organic shapes and hues. This glass piece almost had to be installed in this specific location, and would be much less effective without the surrounding environment. Where it stands, it can address the idea that Seattle is collection of the works of man, yet still delightfully overwhelmed by the influences of sea and sky. The Olympic Sculpture Park places a visitor at a vortex where several eras converge. Traces of industrial activity are still within close proximity, while rectangular blocks of modern condominiums climb ever higher around construction cranes almost like pea vines scale a trellis. The wildly imaginary forms of the sculptures contrast distinctively with the practical shapes of functional residential and commercial structures. A glance to the east will bring the Space Needle into view, now almost a comic symbol of the predictions for life in the 21st Century that were themes of the Seattle World's Fair held 45 years ago. Instead of flying cars, George Jetson buildings on useless stilts, meals in a pill, and robot butlers in every home we have the wonderful, chaotic, enthralling, distressing, and still somehow promising mixture of times, places, and especially people that constitutes our modern reality. Perhaps it's my advancing age, but I'd rather live in times as they are than in any of the fantasy environments we were promised during the Century 21 Exposition. There is no shortage of things to see and do in downtown Seattle, and Bell Harbor Marina provides excellent access for visiting boaters. Very interesting. Lots of familiar names. And, to those that don't think the PNW has great boating, you're right. It sucks. Don't even consider trying it. Please. Dan |
#7
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
Narrow POV.
JR Harry Krause wrote: I really don't know why anyone boats "for pleasure" up there, but I know a lot of people do. Even where I grew up in New England, "boating weather" was bathing suit weather, and the water temps in Long Island Sound were not bad from June through Labor Day. Not so in Seattle. Rain, cloudy, cold weather. If I lived there, I'd had a totally different hobby. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
#8
posted to rec.boats
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A description of the Seattle waterfront
On Tue, 27 Mar 2007 20:33:57 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: Jim wrote: Wow. 4000 words by my estimate. What do you say, Harry? Florida Jim "Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... Warning, this is a bit long. Not written to be a post- but on the off chance that somebody might enjoy it...... ********** Bell Harbor Marina It was a winter of discontent. Sheesh...that would require me to look a bit more closely...I'd say about half that...around 2000-2100 words. I really don't know why anyone boats "for pleasure" up there, but I know a lot of people do. Even where I grew up in New England, "boating weather" was bathing suit weather, and the water temps in Long Island Sound were not bad from June through Labor Day. Not so in Seattle. Rain, cloudy, cold weather. If I lived there, I'd had a totally different hobby. Harry, you have a totally different hobby now! Who are you trying to kid? -- ***** Hope your day is better than decent! ***** John H |
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