WaIIy wrote:
My Raritan PHE II seems to break every time I touch it. Since it's from
1989, I'm thinking of replacing it.

What exactly is breaking?

I've never thought that putting a motor on a PH II does anything more
than turn an outstanding manual toilet into a very poor excuse for any
electric toilet--one of the few things Raritan makes that I don't like.
ALL the motor does is replace the pump handle...and it pumps much
faster, and with a much shorter stroke than pumping manually...which
means it takes longer to prime--and therefore wears out the seals and
o-rings twice as fast--and also "chokes" on flushes that pumping
manually would push through it easily.

Otoh, the Raritan SeaEra is an excellent toilet...macerates, available
in either raw water or pressurized water models--both as "conversions"
that will allow you to keep your existing bowl--and uses considerably
less power than the PHE II--only 10 amps for the pressurized water
version, 16 for the raw water.

Shop hard enough, you should find it for under $400.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

"WaIIy" wrote in message

My Raritan PHE II seems to break every time I touch it. Since it's
from
1989, I'm thinking of replacing it.

....The first thing I did was
break the stem holding the dry/flush knob.

....I was reading
about your advice on the little vent thing, so I promptly twisted that
right off the pump housing.

..... I thought I might as well replace it.

Sounds to me like you're just being a little heavy-handed with the machine.
Get the parts, repair, and go easy. An '89 PHEII ought to last many more
years, but I'll agree with others that the motor assembly is useless.
Disconnect that and stay with the manual. When I bought the Queen, she had
installed a PHE from pre-1981 (I was told by a fellow at Raritan that that
was when they stopped making the PH and went to the PH-II). I disconnected
the motor drive, rebuilt the pump assembly, and have done so at two year
intervals. I also self-modified the flush valve from the 5-turn monster on
the PH to a 1/4 turn unit "sorta like" the one Raritan uses now. The unit
is now at least 23 years old and pumping along just fine, thank you!

Regards,

John Gaquin
Brefnie Queen
1974 Luhrs 32

Wally, I kinda have to agree with John. The manual PH II should last
for at least 20-25 years if you don't abuse it..keep it properly
lubricated, and rebuild it every 5 years. Take the motor off it, and
you'll have a fine manual toilet for the price of air valve and the
rebuild kit you've already bought.

I haven't pulled the unit to rebuild it because I'm going to put
in a new tank (Ronco) and re-hose everything.

That's kinda like deciding not to repair the roof on the house because
you're planning to replace all the windows. Rebuilding the toilet and
replacing the tank and hoses have nothing whatever to do with each
other...but continuing to use the toilet without rebuilding and
lubricating it can cost you a toilet.


The toilet wouldn't pump out on our latest trip, so I disconnected the
motor to obtain a bigger throw with the lever. Anyway, I was reading
about your advice on the little vent thing, so I promptly twisted that
right off the pump housing. I guess I can dig out the old treads, but
was going to replace the whole housing and the air valve.

"Don't force it, get it a bigger hammer"...??? Did it occur to you
that your problem might actually not have anything to do with the
toilet, but was due to a blocked tank vent?

That little teeny valve is $25.00 and the pump housing is $43.00.

But I don't TEEEN the housing includes the valve...and besides--do you
only need the valve...or did you also mangle the housing?

Since the toilet is from 1989, I thought I might as well replace it.

It's your money and your boat...but, fwiw, that toilet--minus the
motor--should have at least another good 5-10 years in it.


Otoh, the Raritan SeaEra is an excellent toilet...macerates, available
in either raw water or pressurized water models--both as "conversions"
that will allow you to keep your existing bowl--and uses considerably
less power than the PHE II--only 10 amps for the pressurized water
version, 16 for the raw water.


I didn't see that one. I was considering the Atlantes, but for a
$600.00 savings, the Sea Era looks good, expecially since I can keep my
larger bowl (seat).

If you're determined to go with electric, it's an excellent choice for
a 30' boat. The Atlantes is a wonderful toilet--everything and much MORE
than a VacuFlush for less than half the price installed--but IMO it's
overkill for your boat...if it'll even fit in the head. The full
household size all china bowl is 19" front-back.

Check 'em both out on the Raritan wehsite at http://www.raritaneng.com

I'm not sure which way to go as to fresh or raw water. I'm on Lake Erie
and there hasn't been a problem with odor with my current raw water
intake.

Eliminating seawater intake odor isn't the only advantage. Pressurized
water toilets use less power (because they don't have intake
pumps)...also less flush water (half or even less that needed by raw
water toilets), and are MUCH quieter...in fact, you can barely hear
'em...'cuz it's the intake pump, not the discharge pump and macerator,
that make all the noise. All that, especially the lower flush water
volume in waters where you can only use a holding tank, is worth
considering.

I guess I could tee off the head sink pipe, but it's that Quest or
similar plumbing and parts are hard to find.

Not that hard...RV supply stores have 'em.

I'm not trying to talk you into it, just making sure you have enough
information to make an informed choice.

Thanks

Any time.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

I have a question on discharge for the Sea Era conversion kit.

You can put the discharge can on either side or at the rear...fitting
can be either straight or 90. I don't remember which one is standard,
but if you need the other one, just call Raritan and tell 'em...they'll
send it to you.

All of the above applies to both the conversion and the complete toilet,
btw.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

I took Peggie's advice and disassembled my PHII to lube the piston. Decided
might as well rebuild it while I was at it. I lubed that dry/flush valve and
it turns very easily now. I imagine all these things will last basically if
they're lubed from time to time. Not that bad a job overall.

--


Keith
__
Bend the facts to fit the conclusion. It's easier that way.
"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Aug 2003 21:23:22 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

WaIIy wrote:
My Raritan PHE II seems to break every time I touch it. Since it's
from
1989, I'm thinking of replacing it.

What exactly is breaking?

I bought a 1989 30ft Tollycraft this year. The first thing I did was
break the stem holding the dry/flush knob. No problem, raritan was very
nice and I ordered the new stm assembly, rebuild kit and new style
crank. I haven't pulled the unit to rebuild it because I'm going to put
in a new tank (Ronco) and re-hose everything.
The toilet wouldn't pump out on our latest trip, so I disconnected the
motor to obtain a bigger throw with the lever. Anyway, I was reading
about your advice on the little vent thing, so I promptly twisted that
right off the pump housing. I guess I can dig out the old treads, but
was going to replace the whole housing and the air valve.
That little teeny valve is $25.00 and the pump housing is $43.00.

Since the toilet is from 1989, I thought I might as well replace it.


I've never thought that putting a motor on a PH II does anything more
than turn an outstanding manual toilet into a very poor excuse for any
electric toilet--one of the few things Raritan makes that I don't like.
ALL the motor does is replace the pump handle...and it pumps much
faster, and with a much shorter stroke than pumping manually...which
means it takes longer to prime--and therefore wears out the seals and
o-rings twice as fast--and also "chokes" on flushes that pumping
manually would push through it easily.

I agree, I agree, I agree. That Beverly Hillbilly's motor assembly is a
joke.

Otoh, the Raritan SeaEra is an excellent toilet...macerates, available
in either raw water or pressurized water models--both as "conversions"
that will allow you to keep your existing bowl--and uses considerably
less power than the PHE II--only 10 amps for the pressurized water
version, 16 for the raw water.

I didn't see that one. I was considering the Atlantes, but for a
$600.00 savings, the Sea Era looks good, expecially since I can keep my
larger bowl (seat).

I'm not sure which way to go as to fresh or raw water. I'm on Lake Erie
and there hasn't been a problem with odor with my current raw water
intake.
I guess I could tee off the head sink pipe, but it's that Quest or
similar plumbing and parts are hard to find.

Shop hard enough, you should find it for under $400.

Thanks

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

I'm going to go with the electric, fresh water conversion and replace
the tank (bigger) and hoses next year.

As long as you're upgrading, if you're in coastal waters, instead of
increasing the size of the tank, consider adding a Lectra/San (CG
certified Type I MSD that treats waste and discharges it overboard)
instead. A FAR more ecologically sound solution to onboard waste than
holding tanks, and legal in all waters except those specifically
designated "no discharge"...which, except for RI, parts of MA, and parts
of the FL Keys National Marine Sanctuary, are VERY few and far between
in coastal waters, and very small. For instance, there are only two on
the entire Chesapeake Bay...Herring Bay and the Northern Coastal Bays.
On the west coast, there are quite a few in SoCal, but only a couple of
small ones on the whole west coast north of Santa Barbara.

If you're unfamiliar with the Lectra/San, check it out on the Raritan
website at http://www.raritaneng.com. There are a couple of other Type
Is on the market, but they're all far more complex and expensive...the
Lectra/San is the most popular--and also totally environmentally
friendly because it doesn't require the use of any chemicals.

I realize the above sounds like a commercial...but I have no connection
with Raritan whatever.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html