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#1
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I have a 2003 Yamaha 60 four stroke with 8 hours runtime. The manual
says top rpm's should be between 5-6000. After the initial 3 hours at various speeds the break in instructions said that I could go full throttle but for only 5 minute intervals. Not once have I been able to reach 5000 rpm. Most I ever got was 4600. My father ran the boat two weeks ago and said it had gotten worse and could only get up to 3500. Called the dealer who told me to bring it in and it would take 2 weeks to have it looked at. I figured it must be a linkage adjustment or maybe a problem with the controls on the console perhaps even a prop problem. Today I call and he tells me that there was water in the gas! This might sound normal accept that 1. the fuel filter float was not indicating any water in the fuel, 2. accept for rpm range the motor runs great! starts right up, no sputtering at all even when the throttle is all the way up. 3. This is third tank of gas that I have run through the motor so I don't see how water could get in all three tanks. I am very suspicious that this guy is trying to charge me for a screw up when the motor was installed. Of course the warrenty would not cover this so I have to eat $180 for the fuel drain and to clean out the carbs on a $8000 motor which is virtually still brand new! Any ideas about what to do? Its my word against his but I suppose that there is a possibility that he is correct. I am taking the boat out for a run with him on Friday and if it runs like I expect than great. The only problem is how can I prove that he fixed something else and charged me for a BS water in gas problem? If there was water in the gas wouldn't the motor operate like crap all the time?? |
#2
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It does sound a little fishy - but good luck proving it.
![]() -W "Trpfan" wrote in message om... I have a 2003 Yamaha 60 four stroke with 8 hours runtime. The manual says top rpm's should be between 5-6000. After the initial 3 hours at various speeds the break in instructions said that I could go full throttle but for only 5 minute intervals. Not once have I been able to reach 5000 rpm. Most I ever got was 4600. My father ran the boat two weeks ago and said it had gotten worse and could only get up to 3500. Called the dealer who told me to bring it in and it would take 2 weeks to have it looked at. I figured it must be a linkage adjustment or maybe a problem with the controls on the console perhaps even a prop problem. Today I call and he tells me that there was water in the gas! This might sound normal accept that 1. the fuel filter float was not indicating any water in the fuel, 2. accept for rpm range the motor runs great! starts right up, no sputtering at all even when the throttle is all the way up. 3. This is third tank of gas that I have run through the motor so I don't see how water could get in all three tanks. I am very suspicious that this guy is trying to charge me for a screw up when the motor was installed. Of course the warrenty would not cover this so I have to eat $180 for the fuel drain and to clean out the carbs on a $8000 motor which is virtually still brand new! Any ideas about what to do? Its my word against his but I suppose that there is a possibility that he is correct. I am taking the boat out for a run with him on Friday and if it runs like I expect than great. The only problem is how can I prove that he fixed something else and charged me for a BS water in gas problem? If there was water in the gas wouldn't the motor operate like crap all the time?? |
#3
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If it is water , It would not run. Check and see if you are getting full
throtle at the carb. |
#4
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![]() I have a 2003 Yamaha 60 four stroke with 8 hours runtime. The manual says top rpm's should be between 5-6000. After the initial 3 hours at various speeds the break in instructions said that I could go full throttle but for only 5 minute intervals. Not once have I been able to reach 5000 rpm. Most I ever got was 4600. My father ran the boat two weeks ago and said it had gotten worse and could only get up to 3500. Called the dealer who told me to bring it in and it would take 2 weeks to have it looked at. I figured it must be a linkage adjustment or maybe a problem with the controls on the console perhaps even a prop problem. Today I call and he tells me that there was water in the gas! This might sound normal accept that 1. the fuel filter float was not indicating any water in the fuel, 2. accept for rpm range the motor runs great! starts right up, no sputtering at all even when the throttle is all the way up. 3. This is third tank of gas that I have run through the motor so I don't see how water could get in all three tanks. I am very suspicious that this guy is trying to charge me for a screw up when the motor was installed. Of course the warrenty would not cover this so I have to eat $180 for the fuel drain and to clean out the carbs on a $8000 motor which is virtually still brand new! Any ideas about what to do? Its my word against his but I suppose that there is a possibility that he is correct. I am taking the boat out for a run with him on Friday and if it runs like I expect than great. The only problem is how can I prove that he fixed something else and charged me for a BS water in gas problem? If there was water in the gas wouldn't the motor operate like crap all the time?? Here's one scenerio..... You're engine is over propped or you're not trimmed out properly so you're only getting 4600 rpms. That's your baseline engine operating range. Then you've got water in the gas. Water will emulsify in the gas and run through the filter in very small droplets as you bounce around in the water. This, in turn, will casue improper fuel burning and premature fouling of the plugs. Then you drop some more RPMs. So, I think it's feasible. But, you should have seen some water accumulation in the bottom of the fuel filter. Possibly you didn't notice it? My guess is that you'll be back at 4600 RPMs after the dealer looks at it and then you'll have to go down in prop size probably 2 sizes. And you should add another fuel filter/water seperator. Let us know how it works out. Barry |
#5
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As an EX. yammie techie I can say you have been "HAD". The dealer will put
the correct prop on it (he has dozens of extras for just such a need) and charge you for water in the gas He probably put in the boat. If it was not mis-firing-it did not have water. |
#6
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So *mark* your old prop and say nothing....... if he switches props and
only talks of water..... - GOTCHA! -W "OldRedNeck" wrote in message ... As an EX. yammie techie I can say you have been "HAD". The dealer will put the correct prop on it (he has dozens of extras for just such a need) and charge you for water in the gas He probably put in the boat. If it was not mis-firing-it did not have water. |
#7
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As an EX. yammie techie I can say you have been "HAD". The dealer will put
the correct prop on it (he has dozens of extras for just such a need) and charge you for water in the gas He probably put in the boat. If it was not mis-firing-it did not have water. Didn't the original post say that he was originally getting 4400 (or so) rpms, and that after a couple of trips the rpms dropped to around 3200. I'd say something was misfiring. And I can assure you that on a fuel injected engine small droplets of water can be mixed with the gas and get through the filter can and will cause premature fouling of the plugs. It doesn't take much for a new lean burn engines to not properly fire. Not usually a problem on carb'ed engines where fuel /air mixture is not so critical. If they change the plugs and clean the fuel tank and them tell him he needs to go down in size on his prop, I'd say he probably hasn't been "HAD". He should thank the dealer for solving the problem before he did serious damage to his new engine. I'd also suggest that he find out where the water's getting in or it will be a continual problem. In case you're wondering, I went through the exact same thing with my 200hpdi Yammy last year. Turned out water was entering around the fuel sending unit and at the fille neck O-ring. They pumped 6 gallons of water out of my tank and I was there to see it. Barry |
#8
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#9
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As an EX. yammie techie I can say you have been "HAD". The dealer will
put the correct prop on it (he has dozens of extras for just such a need) and charge you for water in the gas He probably put in the boat. If it was not mis-firing-it did not have water. F330GT then wrote: Didn't the original post say that he was originally getting 4400 (or so) rpms, and that after a couple of trips the rpms dropped to around 3200. I'd say something was misfiring. And I can assure you that on a fuel injected engine small droplets of water can be mixed with the gas and get through the filter can and will cause premature fouling of the plugs. It doesn't take much for a new lean burn engines to not properly fire. Not usually a problem on carb'ed engines where fuel /air mixture is not so critical. If they change the plugs and clean the fuel tank and them tell him he needs to go down in size on his prop, I'd say he probably hasn't been "HAD". Barry His Reply: So I went down to pick up the boat. Aside from doing the 10 hr checkup and the "water in gas" problem. He had not even put the boat in the water!! We took the boat out and sure enough was only able to run 4600. He says "well we might have to check that prop size" I knew it!!!! Two smaller prop sizes later and she was up to 5500 right where she should be. Then this guy had the audacity to say after he has had the boat for two weeks " I should have done this earlier in the week" Do you beleive that?????!!!!! Needless to say I will never put another penny thru that guys shop. Thanks to all who posted advice and comment. It was a 175$ lesson to learn. Just out of curiosity, what was the diagnosis of the rpm loss that was originally mentioned. I think you mentioned when your father used it he could only get about 3200 rpm from the original 4600. Did that just disappear when you went out with the mechanic? He probably changed plugs with the 10 hour service. Other than taking too long to look at your boat, how did the mechanic screw you? What was the $175 charge? You got the 10 hour maintenance. And what? A new prop? Or 2 hours of his time to change props a couple of times and go for test rides? I didn't think that was all supposed to be free. No offense meant but I'm missing something here. Unless you're saying it's his fault that you had the wrong size prop.......But even then, you should have known from the first day you went out and got 4600 rpm's that you were overpropped. You wouldn't have needed to take the boat back for service. Just change props. I've never seen your boat and I could have told you to go down 2 sizes in pitch. Barry |
#10
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I believe it was a new boat. PArt of the charge for the new boat should be
rigging and that includes the correct prop. Also, he was charge for water in the gas, as that was the stated reason for low RPM's. Those test rides were not free, they are built into the cost of the boat. Bill "F330 GT" wrote in message ... As an EX. yammie techie I can say you have been "HAD". The dealer will put the correct prop on it (he has dozens of extras for just such a need) and charge you for water in the gas He probably put in the boat. If it was not mis-firing-it did not have water. F330GT then wrote: Didn't the original post say that he was originally getting 4400 (or so) rpms, and that after a couple of trips the rpms dropped to around 3200. I'd say something was misfiring. And I can assure you that on a fuel injected engine small droplets of water can be mixed with the gas and get through the filter can and will cause premature fouling of the plugs. It doesn't take much for a new lean burn engines to not properly fire. Not usually a problem on carb'ed engines where fuel /air mixture is not so critical. If they change the plugs and clean the fuel tank and them tell him he needs to go down in size on his prop, I'd say he probably hasn't been "HAD". Barry His Reply: So I went down to pick up the boat. Aside from doing the 10 hr checkup and the "water in gas" problem. He had not even put the boat in the water!! We took the boat out and sure enough was only able to run 4600. He says "well we might have to check that prop size" I knew it!!!! Two smaller prop sizes later and she was up to 5500 right where she should be. Then this guy had the audacity to say after he has had the boat for two weeks " I should have done this earlier in the week" Do you beleive that?????!!!!! Needless to say I will never put another penny thru that guys shop. Thanks to all who posted advice and comment. It was a 175$ lesson to learn. Just out of curiosity, what was the diagnosis of the rpm loss that was originally mentioned. I think you mentioned when your father used it he could only get about 3200 rpm from the original 4600. Did that just disappear when you went out with the mechanic? He probably changed plugs with the 10 hour service. Other than taking too long to look at your boat, how did the mechanic screw you? What was the $175 charge? You got the 10 hour maintenance. And what? A new prop? Or 2 hours of his time to change props a couple of times and go for test rides? I didn't think that was all supposed to be free. No offense meant but I'm missing something here. Unless you're saying it's his fault that you had the wrong size prop.......But even then, you should have known from the first day you went out and got 4600 rpm's that you were overpropped. You wouldn't have needed to take the boat back for service. Just change props. I've never seen your boat and I could have told you to go down 2 sizes in pitch. Barry |