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#1
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Is it possible to find a lightweight tandem canoe (~50 lbs) that is
also reasonably abrasion-resistant? We paddle in fla****er conditions, but we scratch rocks with the bottom a lot - e.g. paddling in High Sierra lakes. They say Kevlar is abrasion-sensitive, but exactly how sensitive is not clear. The canoe we've been using - Royalex Wenonah Spirit II - is 68 lbs and too heavy for me and my wife to portage. Also, it does not cut through water well. Kevlar and Royalex are the only materials I've heard of. I've paddled a Kevlar canoe in the Tupper lake region in ADK and loved it, but the Sierras are much more rockier, so, I am afraid to ruin an expensive boat if I get a Kevlar one. I am not a very diligent paddler either. |
#2
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#4
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![]() You can redo the gel-coat when it gets damaged, as it certainly will. How hard should I hit a rock to make the gel re-coating necessary? Will I have to re-coat after every portage/launch? Will I have to spend hours re-coating after every trip? I know this site http://www.outdoorplaces.com/Feature.../newcanoe1.htm. Not specific. Generates more questions than answers I need semi- qunatitative information to make the decision (e.g. hours spent kevlar re-coating after every weekend trip, bucks spent on the gel, etc, chances of the boat totalling due to a minor accident, etc). |
#5
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wrote:
You can redo the gel-coat when it gets damaged, as it certainly will. How hard should I hit a rock to make the gel re-coating necessary? Will I have to re-coat after every portage/launch? Will I have to spend hours re-coating after every trip? I know this site http://www.outdoorplaces.com/Feature.../newcanoe1.htm. Not specific. Generates more questions than answers I need semi- qunatitative information to make the decision (e.g. hours spent kevlar re-coating after every weekend trip, bucks spent on the gel, etc, chances of the boat totalling due to a minor accident, etc). Most "Kevlar" canoes have a layer or two of glass on the outside to prevent the dreaded Kevlar Fuzz. Ask about the specific construction of any canoe you're interested in. You can always repair a composite boat with a thin layer of resin too. All my composite (whitewater) boats are used hard and while I've had to do an occasional patch, none are fuzzy. |
#6
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#7
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On Aug 14, 3:44 pm, wrote:
You can redo the gel-coat when it gets damaged, as it certainly will. How hard should I hit a rock to make the gel re-coating necessary? Will I have to re-coat after every portage/launch? Will I have to spend hours re-coating after every trip? If you're paddling lakes, there's no excuse for hitting rocks hard, especially as clear as those lakes are. Canoes get scratched on the bottom from landing. It's part of the activity. For a baseline, I have a fiberglass slalom racing canoe that i paddle in whitewater a few times a year. I hit rocks, and I'm moving right along when i do. I haven't needed to patch it in several years. My previous race boat was a Wenonah in their Tuf-Weave layup. That stuff is stout. The next owner managed to tear it up, but he used the corner of a parking garage to do it. Bottom line: get yourself a composite (fiberglass and/or Kevlar) boat with gelcoat on the outside and go paddle. Every couple of years, look to see if you have worn off enough gelcoat to see the fibers (probably not). If so, patch it. It'll take about an hour. Enjoy! Steve |
#8
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![]() wrote in message ups.com... You can redo the gel-coat when it gets damaged, as it certainly will. How hard should I hit a rock to make the gel re-coating necessary? Will I have to re-coat after every portage/launch? Will I have to spend hours re-coating after every trip? I know this site http://www.outdoorplaces.com/Feature.../newcanoe1.htm. Not specific. Generates more questions than answers I need semi- qunatitative information to make the decision (e.g. hours spent kevlar re-coating after every weekend trip, bucks spent on the gel, etc, chances of the boat totalling due to a minor accident, etc). We have a couple of people that paddle the Explorer on wilderness trips in Canada. many of the rivers are very rocky and the bottom of their boats are scratched. That said, none of the scratches have been so deep as to require any repair. This is after several years of paddling, and some very fast moving hits on rocks. They could re gel coat, but it would be mostly for cosmetic reasons. As for entry/exit, get some skid plates added to the front and back. They don't have to be the full monster pads, just a strip wide enough to cover the ends from just above waterline to just underneath the boat. Hope that helps. have fun, and paddle safe... |
#9
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Take a look at Esquif Canoes, they have a new layup called Twin Tex.
Supposed to be tough and light. http://www.esquif.com/en/index.php?mod=modeles&id=31 |
#10
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On Aug 16, 3:39 pm, "d.williams" wrote:
Take a look at Esquif Canoes, they have a new layup called Twin Tex. Supposed to be tough and light. http://www.esquif.com/en/index.php?mod=modeles&id=31 Thanks for the link! What is interesting about these canoes is how short they are - most of them are around 16 feet. I made up my mind - I will wait for a good deal on a kevlar tandem canoe. I am mostly familiar with the Wenonah product line. It appears that the amount of time required for mainainence does not outweigh the pleasure of a light boat. You are right, there is no excuse for not avoiding rocks in calm lakes, and as I get better at steering this should be reduced to a minimum. I will polish my skills with Royalex, while waiting for the good deal to show. |
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