All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the
number one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the
number one reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends
changing them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the number
one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the number one
reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends changing
them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.

often wondered the same myself...

My rubber boot is 11 years old and still pliable no signs of dry rot or
brittleness. But I check it often and my boat does not stay in the water.

My last boat sunk for this exact reason. I was leaving it in the water,
hadn't checked the boot and when I came back the boat has sunk. A LOT of
work for a rubber boot!!!!

"john" wrote:
My last boat sunk for this exact reason.

How old was the boot? And was it moored in salt or fresh water?

I've owned a couple of sterndrives over the years, with boots that
became fairly old ( 10 yrs), but I would never leave them in the
water. Well.... except maybe a weekend here and there or a week
(vacation) when I planned to use it every day.
From what I've seen of moored boats, I would think a boot would last a
lot longer kept in fresh water than salt.

Rick

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:58:38 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the
number one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the
number one reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends
changing them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.

Changing it is probably some pretty cheap insurance. Cracks usually
form in the creases, which are not all that easy to asses correctly.

You probably need to inspect every three months and replace at least
every 5 years.... sort of like the cooling impeller.... you don't want
to wait until it *needs* repair to fix it!

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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Lots of them last well over 10 years. I would inspect periodically and
replace when it shows some signs of aging on a trailer boat. Keep the
outdrive in the down position while it is stored to increase the life of
them.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the number
one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the number one
reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends changing
them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 12:58:38 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the
number one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the
number one reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends
changing them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.

Changing it is probably some pretty cheap insurance. Cracks usually
form in the creases, which are not all that easy to asses correctly.

You probably need to inspect every three months and replace at least
every 5 years.... sort of like the cooling impeller.... you don't want
to wait until it *needs* repair to fix it!


I think you are correct. Has anyone changed the outdrive boot and is it
a DIY'er job or one best left to the pro's.

jamesgangnc wrote:
Lots of them last well over 10 years. I would inspect periodically and
replace when it shows some signs of aging on a trailer boat. Keep the
outdrive in the down position while it is stored to increase the life of
them.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the number
one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the number one
reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends changing
them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.



I have always kept the outdrive in the down position, but it stays in
the water except for an annual hauling. I think Gene's comment about it
being "cheap insurance" is appropriate. Now does anyone have any
experience changing them out?

wrote in message
...
"john" wrote:
My last boat sunk for this exact reason.

How old was the boot? And was it moored in salt or fresh water?

I've owned a couple of sterndrives over the years, with boots that
became fairly old ( 10 yrs), but I would never leave them in the
water. Well.... except maybe a weekend here and there or a week
(vacation) when I planned to use it every day.
From what I've seen of moored boats, I would think a boot would last a
lot longer kept in fresh water than salt.

Rick

I only left it in the water from weekend to weekend myself, It was in Fresh
water. It has been a while, I haven't had that boat for 10 years. I
"think" the boot was probably about 17 years old, but it might have been
older, I was the third owner, I bought the boat and drove it for 7-8 years
before it sunk.
It was my first I/O and now I know better to check those kinds of things.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
jamesgangnc wrote:
Lots of them last well over 10 years. I would inspect periodically and
replace when it shows some signs of aging on a trailer boat. Keep the
outdrive in the down position while it is stored to increase the life of
them.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the
number one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the
number one reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive
boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has anyone
seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends
changing them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.



I have always kept the outdrive in the down position, but it stays in the
water except for an annual hauling. I think Gene's comment about it being
"cheap insurance" is appropriate. Now does anyone have any experience
changing them out?


Yes they are not too bad. You have to remove the out drive and then from
the bottom there are two large hose clamps. Because of the accordion
design, it can be a pain getting the second side on, you stretch it out with
the clamp on and then before you can tighten it down it pops off again. If
you are handy, you can probably save yourself +/- $500 for one day of work.

Most people do the drive bellows, the exhaust tube, and the shifter bellows
at the same time. You can get them as a set. I find they are a pain.

"john" wrote in message
...

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
jamesgangnc wrote:
Lots of them last well over 10 years. I would inspect periodically and
replace when it shows some signs of aging on a trailer boat. Keep the
outdrive in the down position while it is stored to increase the life of
them.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
All of this talk about low transoms and cut out transoms, being the
number one reason for outboard motors sinking, made me think about the
number one reason I/O engines sink is due to a failure rubber outdrive
boot.

I check the boot annually and whenever I go in the water, but has
anyone seen a recommended life on a I/O. Seaworthy Magazine recommends
changing them every 5 years, but does this include fresh water boats?

My boat is 7 years old, and the boot seems as pliable w/o any visible
cracks what so ever, but I am feeling it might be time to change the
sucker.



I have always kept the outdrive in the down position, but it stays in the
water except for an annual hauling. I think Gene's comment about it
being "cheap insurance" is appropriate. Now does anyone have any
experience changing them out?


Yes they are not too bad. You have to remove the out drive and then from
the bottom there are two large hose clamps. Because of the accordion
design, it can be a pain getting the second side on, you stretch it out
with the clamp on and then before you can tighten it down it pops off
again. If you are handy, you can probably save yourself +/- $500 for one
day of work.