On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:47:32 GMT, Canuck57 penned the following well
considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:


Stuff some small amount of axle or non-conducting grease into the shoulder
of the crimp connector after crimping. The idea is once the heat shrink has
shrunk a small amount will squeeze out and no air or moisture can get in.
Will last longer and not oxidize as fast.


Don't use axle grease..... use a good quality dielectric grease. I
prefer Dow Corning DC-4.

And the stuff is MUCH better to use in installing oil filters than
oil. You will never have a stuck filter....

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 22:10:43 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:47:32 GMT, "Canuck57"
wrote:

Never solder cable subject to vibration. Just don't do it. Or you will
have to rework it in time, likely on the water. The strands will flex an
break, the insulation will degrade and when few strands are left the current
will burn the rest out. That is if the solder joint isn't cold or cracks.

In the installation we are discussing, solder will strengthen the
mechanical bond.

And increase the likelihood that you will end up with a wire in one
hand and a tightly adhered 1/2 inch of wire and lug in the other.

Even with a production level mechanical crimper, it is almost
impossible to prevent vibration from loosening the connectors.

I absolutely do not agree. Even if so, that is why we use adhesive
heat shrink. Properly installed crimps with heat shrink won't work
harden, corrode, and certainly won't come apart....

Soldering prevents that. The only truly effective battery connection
is a molded lead/tin casting onto the cable and gues what...

That's the same effect as soldering.

Any it is why these things sell like hot cakes....
http://tinyurl.com/36bwhp

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:11:30 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:19:31 -0000,
wrote:

I want to install my battery in the bow of my 16 foot skiff. The
battery will power the starter for a 25 horse electric start
evinrude.
The total cable length will be 18 feet, no breaks. What guage wire do
I need to use, do I need to use something as big as a car like 4
guage, or can I use 8?? How many amps does a typical 25 horse starter
draw?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Go to Abuchon's and get 20 feet of #10 zip wire. You don't need
anything larger than #10 - that starter doesn't require tons of amps.


Lamp cord...... rigghhhttt.......

The smallest marine battery cable than I know of is #8..... suppose
they are trying to tell you something???? Ditto the packaged terminal
set....


--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
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On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:51:40 -0400, Gene Kearns
wrote:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 19:11:30 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 15:19:31 -0000,
wrote:

I want to install my battery in the bow of my 16 foot skiff. The
battery will power the starter for a 25 horse electric start
evinrude.
The total cable length will be 18 feet, no breaks. What guage wire do
I need to use, do I need to use something as big as a car like 4
guage, or can I use 8?? How many amps does a typical 25 horse starter
draw?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Go to Abuchon's and get 20 feet of #10 zip wire. You don't need
anything larger than #10 - that starter doesn't require tons of amps.


Lamp cord...... rigghhhttt.......

Well, for starters, it's not lamp cord. It's used on farms for
repairs to tractors, milking machines and a ton of other uses where
the capacity is less than required for #8.

Secondly, it has heavy quage strands and is stiff as a board.

The smallest marine battery cable than I know of is #8..... suppose
they are trying to tell you something???? Ditto the packaged terminal
set....

Wrong again.

I can point you to a number of manufacturers, includin Grady White who
use #10 cable in zip cord format for easier wire runs.

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:46:25 -0400, Gene Kearns
wrote:

Even with a production level mechanical crimper, it is almost
impossible to prevent vibration from loosening the connectors.

I absolutely do not agree. Even if so, that is why we use adhesive
heat shrink. Properly installed crimps with heat shrink won't work
harden, corrode, and certainly won't come apart....

Well you must be really rich then if you can do it without having a
molded connector.

You ought to go into buisness. :)

If you don't ahve access to a hose clamp, but have a drill and bit
set, then take a 1/16th inch drill bit and drill down through the top
of the battery post. Shred off about an inch of insulation from the
wire, and if it's multi-strand, then twist the wire till it's similar
to a solid strand. Then go dig around till you find an apropriate
sized sheet metal screw, wrap the wire around the screw to make a good
loop, then proceed to tighten the sheet metal screw into the battery
post untill it tightened firmly. This procedure is aproved by a lot
of local citizen band radio technitions. Especially on older Ford,
f-250, and Chevy Chyanne 4 wd pickup trucks.


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 16:12:12 -0700, Tim wrote:

On Sep 23, 5:10 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:47:32 GMT, "Canuck57"

wrote:
Never solder cable subject to vibration. Just don't do it. Or you will
have to rework it in time, likely on the water. The strands will flex an
break, the insulation will degrade and when few strands are left the current
will burn the rest out. That is if the solder joint isn't cold or cracks.

In the installation we are discussing, solder will strengthen the
mechanical bond.

Even with a production level mechanical crimper, it is almost
impossible to prevent vibration from loosening the connectors.

Soldering prevents that. The only truly effective battery connection
is a molded lead/tin casting onto the cable and gues what...

That's the same effect as soldering.

Oh, c'mon man.
Use a top post battery, get a propper fitting hose clamp, put around
the battery post, Bare off about 1 inch of insullation, slide the bare
wires down betweent he hose clamp and the battery post. tighten tight.

That way you can always monitor the corrosion.

I know farmers who have the exact configuration on Super MTAs. :)

Any job worth doing is worth doing right!

Damn straight.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...

Lamp cord...... rigghhhttt.......

Well, for starters, it's not lamp cord. It's used on farms for
repairs to tractors, milking machines and a ton of other uses where
the capacity is less than required for #8.

It isn't just about capacity. It is that your motor turns and vibrates. In
a car, it doesn't turn or vibrate as much. Nether in your home. And is the
"lamp" cord braded and have a metal composition that flexes when you turn
the motor? Does it have enough braded strands enough to take 5000 turns?

I can point you to a number of manufacturers, includin Grady White who
use #10 cable in zip cord format for easier wire runs.

They just might. From the fuse box to the non-moving instrument panel. But
this dude is attaching it to a pivoting motor.

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 00:51:06 GMT, "Canuck57"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .

Lamp cord...... rigghhhttt.......

Well, for starters, it's not lamp cord. It's used on farms for
repairs to tractors, milking machines and a ton of other uses where
the capacity is less than required for #8.

It isn't just about capacity. It is that your motor turns and vibrates. In
a car, it doesn't turn or vibrate as much. Nether in your home. And is the
"lamp" cord braded and have a metal composition that flexes when you turn
the motor? Does it have enough braded strands enough to take 5000 turns?

I can point you to a number of manufacturers, includin Grady White who
use #10 cable in zip cord format for easier wire runs.

They just might. From the fuse box to the non-moving instrument panel. But
this dude is attaching it to a pivoting motor.

The engine uses a molded connector on flexible cable supplied from
Johnson.

There is no solid wire to the engine.

Any more comments?

On Sep 24, 8:18 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

There is no solid wire to the engine.

Any more comments

Certianly Tom, what do you wish to know?

On Sep 25, 12:59 am, Tim wrote:
On Sep 24, 8:18 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

There is no solid wire to the engine.

Any more comments

Certianly Tom, what do you wish to know?

Hrumph... uh, Tom already knows everything, just ask him