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Default Changing oils

I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...

1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?

2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?

3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.

4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.

The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.

-Robert
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Tim Tim is offline
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Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...

1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?

2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?

3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.

4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.

The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.

-Robert


Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book
from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them
from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will
tell you exactly what to do.

changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case
but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the
oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very
undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be
recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't
really expensive.

th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's
water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that
is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh
water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really
that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end
change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at
least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools.
nothing specialty.

To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that
the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the
tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the
drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the
top.

Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures
practaclly fool proof.

BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll
need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your
boat running well.

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Tim Tim is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,111
Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...

1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?

2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?

3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.

4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.

The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.

-Robert


Concerning the zerk. I believe the one you are talkign about is to
lubricate the gimbal bearing. which is in between the lower end and
the boat hull. The mercruiser book will inform you about that as well.
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HK HK is offline
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Default Changing oils

Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...

1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?

2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?

3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.

4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.

The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.

-Robert


Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book
from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them
from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will
tell you exactly what to do.

changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case
but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the
oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very
undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be
recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't
really expensive.

th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's
water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that
is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh
water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really
that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end
change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at
least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools.
nothing specialty.

To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that
the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the
tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the
drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the
top.

Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures
practaclly fool proof.

BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll
need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your
boat running well.



$600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil.
Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book
time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it.

There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight
the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times
what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter?

I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat.

I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and
filter change, including the oil.

Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a
real mechanic do it.
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Tim Tim is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,111
Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote:
Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...


1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?


2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?


3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.


4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.


The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.


-Robert


Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book
from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them
from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will
tell you exactly what to do.


changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case
but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the
oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very
undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be
recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't
really expensive.


th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's
water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that
is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh
water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really
that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end
change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at
least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools.
nothing specialty.


To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that
the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the
tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the
drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the
top.


Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures
practaclly fool proof.


BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll
need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your
boat running well.


$600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil.
Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book
time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it.

There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight
the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times
what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter?

I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat.

I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and
filter change, including the oil.

Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a
real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Agreed with all the above.

$300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But
that's plenty.

Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very
impressed and satisfied with the Clymers.

Pick you the year range of your boat and go from the

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Manuals...fxdZ1QQ_ptasZ1


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Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:

Agreed with all the above.

$300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But
that's plenty.


The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the
engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to
boat year around.
The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more
to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only
parts listed.
-robert
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Aug 2007
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Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote:





Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to
do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following...


1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it
out?


2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump
the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump..
Is this something an owner can reasonably buy?


3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard
car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm
drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about
having to change a water pump every 2 years.


4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on
the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding
what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc.
Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing.


The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm
handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself.


-Robert


Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book
from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them
from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will
tell you exactly what to do.


changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case
but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the
oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very
undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be
recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't
really expensive.


th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's
water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that
is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh
water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really
that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end
change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at
least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools.
nothing specialty.


To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that
the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the
tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the
drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the
top.


Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures
practaclly fool proof.


BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll
need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your
boat running well.


$600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil.
Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book
time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it.


There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight
the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times
what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter?


I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat.


I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and
filter change, including the oil.


Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a
real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Agreed with all the above.

$300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But
that's plenty.

Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very
impressed and satisfied with the Clymers.


I went ahead and bought the SELOC manual. I didn't see the other brand
for my year. I'm looking forward to it. When I was 15 I bought an old
Toyota and then bought the Chilton manual for it. I read that book
cover to cover several times.

-Robert
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HK HK is offline
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Default Changing oils

Robert M. Gary wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11 pm, Tim wrote:

Agreed with all the above.

$300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But
that's plenty.


The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the
engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to
boat year around.
The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more
to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only
parts listed.
-robert



$360 for an oil change on what is basically a car engine is highway
robbery. What you are talking about here is six quarts of (being
generous) $3.00 a quart oil, an $8 oil filter, an oil disposal fee, and
well under an hour's work. $75 to $$100 may be a fair price. Whoever
paid $360 bent over pretty damned far.


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Tim Tim is offline
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Default Changing oils

On Apr 14, 4:30*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:

Agreed with all the above.


$300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But
that's plenty.


The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the
engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to
boat year around.
The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more
to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only
parts listed.
-robert



Robert, you're getting poked. or as JimH said, you're getting raped.

No, unless you live in N. Cal. winterizing shouldn't be a concern. But
at a reputable shop, a complete tune up including fluid changes I
would think should be less than $400.00.
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Default Changing oils

On Apr 15, 4:33*am, "John" wrote:
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in ...

I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the
engine and drive oils.


The reason they get the name "Stealership".

Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil
pump for $20.
The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom
and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have a
reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom
cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs
SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that
screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil.
Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine.

By all means get a manual!


Indeed!

What I do on mine is squeeze the oil in from the bottom, and to make
sure the upper is full, I've taked the crown cap off the top of the
lower end, and made sure the oil was fully to the top, so no air
pockets were evident.
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