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#1
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03
Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert |
#2
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. |
#3
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 1:34*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Concerning the zerk. I believe the one you are talkign about is to lubricate the gimbal bearing. which is in between the lower end and the boat hull. The mercruiser book will inform you about that as well. |
#4
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it. |
#5
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote:
Tim wrote: On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very impressed and satisfied with the Clymers. Pick you the year range of your boat and go from the http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Manuals...fxdZ1QQ_ptasZ1 |
#6
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:
Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert |
#7
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote:
On Apr 14, 2:01*pm, HK wrote: Tim wrote: On Apr 14, 1:34 pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote: I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. This seems like something I should be able to do myself. However, I'm trying to find out the following... 1) Does my engine have an engine oil drain or do I have to pump it out? 2) I see that changing the drive oil requires some sort of kit to pump the new oil up the drive unit. I don't see anyone who sells this pump.. Is this something an owner can reasonably buy? 3) Does my boat have an outdrive water pump? The engine has a standard car water pump so I was surprised to see references online to a sterm drive water pump as well. The previous owner said something about having to change a water pump every 2 years. 4) I believe I have an "Alpha" drive. I see there is a zerk fitting on the outdrive. However, I don't see anything in the manual regarding what should be put in it (standard grease?) and how often/why.etc. Usually zerks are put on places that require regular lubing. The dealer quotes $1000 to do an annual maintenance. I'm thinking I'm handy enough that I should be able to do some of this myself. -Robert Robt. save about $950.00 and do it yourself. Get a Mercruiser book from ebay for alpha drives .They're pretty common and you cn get them from $25-40.00 depending on condition. They are comprehensive and will tell you exactly what to do. changing oil is hard to do. you can reach the drain on the crank case but it's buried down under the engine. plus the only way to drain the oil is to take it off and unfortunately it will leave a very undesiareable gloppy mess down in the bildge. A punp would be recommended to suck the oil out of the dip-stick tube, and they arn't really expensive. th lower end water pump is located inside the lower end. it push's water up to the engine, then the engine pump takes it from there. that is unless it's an enclosed system, but chances are you're is a fresh water or "total loss system. Changing the lower end pump isn't really that difficult if you follow the instructions. To pull the lower end change the pump and re -install takes abotu 45 min. to a hr. or at least that's been my experience. and you can do it with common tools. nothing specialty. To change the lower end oil , you can do that with a squeeze tube that the oil is provided in. after draining the lower end oil, you take the tube and cut the end off to the desired opening size , shove into the drain hole, and squeeze like crazy. thsi forces the oil up to the top. Thats my view in a nutshell, but get a book. it will make procedures practaclly fool proof. BTW, the book WILL provide you with 99.99 % of the knowledge you'll need about the engine, drive, and necessary adjustments to keep your boat running well. $600 seems an incredible amount of money to change engine and drive oil. Shouldn't be more than a half hour to 45 minutes hour of flat-rate book time for both, if a real mechanic is doing it. There's nothing special about the engine oil, either. Whatever weight the engine manufacturer recommends for your weather conditions, times what, five or six quarts, including a quart for the filter? I dunno about I/O lower unit oil, having never owned an I/O boat. I would think a decent shop would charge about $75-$100 for an oil and filter change, including the oil. Best way to learn how to change the lower unit impeller is to watch a real mechanic do it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. Basck on the manuals. I don't know about SELOC but I've been very impressed and satisfied with the Clymers. I went ahead and bought the SELOC manual. I didn't see the other brand for my year. I'm looking forward to it. When I was 15 I bought an old Toyota and then bought the Chilton manual for it. I read that book cover to cover several times. -Robert |
#8
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
Robert M. Gary wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11 pm, Tim wrote: Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert $360 for an oil change on what is basically a car engine is highway robbery. What you are talking about here is six quarts of (being generous) $3.00 a quart oil, an $8 oil filter, an oil disposal fee, and well under an hour's work. $75 to $$100 may be a fair price. Whoever paid $360 bent over pretty damned far. |
#9
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 14, 4:30*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:11*pm, Tim wrote: Agreed with all the above. $300.00 would be generous for a winterization, I would think. But that's plenty. The bill from the end of last summer shows $360 pts&lbr just for the engine oil. I'm not sure we "winterize" in California. People seem to boat year around. The stern drive service was billed at $250 so perhaps there was more to that service than oil change but oil and gaskets were the only parts listed. -robert Robert, you're getting poked. or as JimH said, you're getting raped. No, unless you live in N. Cal. winterizing shouldn't be a concern. But at a reputable shop, a complete tune up including fluid changes I would think should be less than $400.00. |
#10
posted to rec.boats
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Changing oils
On Apr 15, 4:33*am, "John" wrote:
"Robert M. Gary" wrote in ... I'm looking through the previous owner's service receipts on my 03 Bayliner 185 (4.3L) boat. The dealer is charging $600 to change the engine and drive oils. The reason they get the name "Stealership". Change the oil yourself! *go to harbourfeight.com they sell a standup oil pump for $20. The outdrive can be the hardest, there are two cap screws one at the bottom and one at the top, take them both out and let it run. *If you have a reservoir in the engine compartment for outdrive oil, you can put the bottom cap screw back in and fill it from the engine compartment - but it runs SLOW! *Or you squeeze it in by the tube, they also sell an adapter hose that screws into the cap screw hole and connects to quarts of gear oil. Use good quality 30 weight oil in the engine. By all means get a manual! Indeed! What I do on mine is squeeze the oil in from the bottom, and to make sure the upper is full, I've taked the crown cap off the top of the lower end, and made sure the oil was fully to the top, so no air pockets were evident. |
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