"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...
It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas



Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.


And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed
engine compartments , right?

On Apr 21, 9:16*am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help.

Jim Rojas



Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all
you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing
etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change
over.....


BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the
exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about
$55-65.00

On Apr 21, 9:56*am, "Jim" wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...





It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40.

The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able
to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone.

The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted
up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all
setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets,
bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full
illustration.

Jim Rojas



Tim wrote:
On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help.

Jim Rojas



Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot...
Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all
you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing
etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change
over.....


BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the
exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about
$55-65.00

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...





It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It
is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an
impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might
jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on
a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in
enclosed
engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on
boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory.

I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied
with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking
a runabout boat here.

I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could
happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent
people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained
runabout.

On Apr 21, 12:09*pm, "Jim" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote:





"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...

It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It
is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an
impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might
jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on
a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in
enclosed
engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on
boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory.

I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied
with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking
a runabout boat here.

I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could
happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent
people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained
runabout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, no doubt, Jim. and I'm not really discounting the idea that it's a
good thing. But it's amazing how many boats you'll find that have
google, jerry rigged things onboard.Again. I'm not saying it's a good
thing....

But if a person uses some common sense and has a decent knowledge
about spark/flame arresting, and can adapt to such, then there
shouldn't be a problem.

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Apr 21, 12:09 pm, "Jim" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote:





"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...

It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time.
It
is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an
impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to
change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel
pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might
jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is
on
a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of
the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet,
the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times
that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to
activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and
power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I
hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in
enclosed
engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on
boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory.

I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied
with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking
a runabout boat here.

I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could
happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent
people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained
runabout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, no doubt, Jim. and I'm not really discounting the idea that it's a
good thing. But it's amazing how many boats you'll find that have
google, jerry rigged things onboard.Again. I'm not saying it's a good
thing....

But if a person uses some common sense and has a decent knowledge
about spark/flame arresting, and can adapt to such, then there
shouldn't be a problem.

We can only hope ;-

On Apr 21, 12:13*pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able
to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone.

The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted
up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all
setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets,
bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full
illustration.

Jim Rojas



Tim wrote:
On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help.

Jim Rojas

Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot...
Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all
you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing
etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change
over.....

BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the
exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about
$55-65.00- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in
the outdrive? What prompted that?

wrote:
On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able
to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone.

The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted
up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all
setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets,
bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full
illustration.

Jim Rojas



Tim wrote:
On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help.
Jim Rojas
Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot...
Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all
you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing
etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change
over.....
BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the
exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about
$55-65.00- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in
the outdrive? What prompted that?

Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower
unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself
once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I
screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a
mobile marine mechanic to fix it right.

Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry
about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An
electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an
impeller kit.

Jim Rojas

On Apr 21, 1:33*pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
wrote:
On Apr 21, 12:13 pm, Jim Rojas wrote:
The hardest part was getting the harmonic balancer removed. I was able
to get a puller & inserter on loan from Autozone.

The old stator came off pretty easy. The magnets however were all busted
up, and I had to carefully look around for loose pieces. When it was all
setup and done, the kit was well worth it. It came with the brackets,
bolts, washers, belt, and wiring harness, along with a step by step full
illustration.

Jim Rojas

Tim wrote:
On Apr 21, 9:16 am, Jim Rojas wrote:
No offense taken. I am just glad to see people in this newsgroup willing
to help.
Jim Rojas
Ernest Scribbler wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote
Yeah...that I am an idiot...
Sorry if that's what I implied, not really what I meant to say.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Throttle body is kind fo neat , that is on a car, but look at all
you'd have to do for a boat. High pressure fuel pump, computer timing
etc, etc. It HAS been done, but it's not worth the cost of a change
over.....
BTW, i know exactly the the alternator kit you used. and with the
exception of making the brackets. The alternator is only about
$55-65.00- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

So you used an electric water pump to replace the raw water pump in
the outdrive? *What prompted that?

Laziness for the most part. It is a pain in the ass to drain the lower
unit, unbolt it, remove it, replace the parts. I tried doing it myself
once. I followed the step by step directions in the Clymer manual, but I
screwed up and now the boat doesn't go into reverse. I ended up hiring a
mobile marine mechanic to fix it right.

Now that I have the electric raw water pump setup, All I have to worry
about is replacing just the lower unit gear oil every season. An
electric pump take me 5 minutes to replace, and it costs the same as an
impeller kit.

Jim Rojas- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ingenuity is good. But one thing I must question. I know the kit you
bought to repair your charging system. It' is expensive, but it does
work, fit and is professionally made. and you gave $400.+ bucks for it
and thought it was money well spent, which in your case probably would
have been, because trying to mount an external alt. on that engine
would be a PITA. i can understand that.

But wouldn't repairing the water flow system follow under the same
notion?

Pay the money and have it fixed right?