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Default long time to crank

After not running for several weeks, my Yamaha 90 hp 2 cycle needs to
crank for a seriously long time before she catches and begins to
start. I believe (but am not sure) that the reason is that my fuel
hose is about 15' long and even though I squeeze the primer bulb, all
this does is compress air and pushes fuel near the fuel pump. Somehow
fuel takes a lot of cranking to reach the fuel pump. If I run her a
lot, I do not have this problem. Thoughts?
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Default long time to crank


wrote in message
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After not running for several weeks, my Yamaha 90 hp 2 cycle needs to
crank for a seriously long time before she catches and begins to
start. I believe (but am not sure) that the reason is that my fuel
hose is about 15' long and even though I squeeze the primer bulb, all
this does is compress air and pushes fuel near the fuel pump. Somehow
fuel takes a lot of cranking to reach the fuel pump. If I run her a
lot, I do not have this problem. Thoughts?


The primer bulb should get "hard" after squeezing a few times. Liquid gas
won't compress. Air will.
If the bulb is hard, you have purged any air out of the lines.

Eisboch


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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Nov 2006
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Default long time to crank

On Aug 8, 10:30 pm, wrote:
After not running for several weeks, my Yamaha 90 hp 2 cycle needs to
crank for a seriously long time before she catches and begins to
start. I believe (but am not sure) that the reason is that my fuel
hose is about 15' long and even though I squeeze the primer bulb, all
this does is compress air and pushes fuel near the fuel pump. Somehow
fuel takes a lot of cranking to reach the fuel pump. If I run her a
lot, I do not have this problem. Thoughts?


i don't really know, but you could have a defective fuel pump that's
"bleeding off", then not pumping fuel sufficiently to the carbs. or
seeing that a two strike runs via crankcase vacuum, it's possible that
there is a crank seal that's seeping slightly and not allowing
sufficient vacuum to happen until it starts.

When I was a kid, my dad had an old Lawn Boy mower, and it had good
rings, but the crank seal at on the blade end was wallered out a
little. you could pull your guts out and never get it started. My dad
got used to starting it by putting a socket on the topside crankshaft
and using an electric impact for a "pony motor."

You pulled the rope to get it swinging and hit the impact at the same
time to keep it spinning. pretty soon, you'd hear the engine start to
spark and sputter, till it finally ran on it's own. and when it
started thee socket would sling itself across the garage floor. It was
the most powerless thing going, but if you shut it off and went to
refuel it, it would then start first pull.

Just thought I'd pass that along.,
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Default long time to crank

wrote in news:a17f9d96-20d1-4da7-97d7-
:

even though I squeeze the primer bulb, all
this does is compress air and pushes fuel near the fuel pump.


Nope...When you squeeze the bulb, does it ever get impossible to squeeze
further....Does it squeeze up hard?

The bulb pumps gas through the chinzy pulse rubber diaphram fuel pump into
the float bowls. Once the bowls get full, the point where it's time to
crank, the float valves all close and the bulb is impossible to pump
further...you simply can't squeeze it together further.

If you cannot get it to pump up hard, two possibilities exist. You have a
fuel system leak between the bulb and the carbs...probably a hole in the
aforementioned chinzy fuel pump diaphram caused by a backfire blowing the
diaphram in the pulse-supplying cylinder or old age in the diaphram
itself....or you have a stuck float valve and gas is pouring into the reed
valve body from your pumping flooding that cylinder/cylinders it feeds into
the crankcase.

This latter, of course, is why it's hard to start as it's either flooded
from your pumping or is fuel starved because the pulse pump is sucking air
through its diaphram...or the hole in the hose....never filling the float
bowls in the beast.

If it won't pump up hard, take the screws out of the pulse fuel pump and
inspect the rubber diaphram. If the diaphram looks all wrinkled like that
condom you used to use when you were a teen and had no money for a new one,
replace it, anyways, as it won't pump good and will soon fail.

Of course, if you smell gas pumping the bulb, take the cover off the engine
and look where it's coming from....that tiny hose, buried under all that
other crap, that connects the fuel pump to some other stupidity you can't
identify and will have to disassemble half the engine to change and get the
hose clamps back on straight. It's the only hose that can fail.

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