I'm working on a Merc 3.0 that doesn't have 12 volts, with the key on, at the
purple wire (#5 pin) at the main connector behind the engine.

The ignition switch is fine. Seems like a broken wire between the main connector
and the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't run a new wire from the ignition terminal on
the key switch to the #5 connector pin that feeds the coil/choke/alt.

Thanks for any help
Larry

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a Merc 3.0 that doesn't have 12 volts, with the key on, at
the purple wire (#5 pin) at the main connector behind the engine.

The ignition switch is fine. Seems like a broken wire between the main
connector and the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't run a new wire from the ignition
terminal on the key switch to the #5 connector pin that feeds the
coil/choke/alt.

Thanks for any help
Larry
Wiggle the plug around.You might have a bad connection. If that's it, I'll
tell you how to fix it.

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
I'm working on a Merc 3.0 that doesn't have 12 volts, with the key on, at
the purple wire (#5 pin) at the main connector behind the engine.

The ignition switch is fine. Seems like a broken wire between the main
connector and the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't run a new wire from the ignition
terminal on the key switch to the #5 connector pin that feeds the
coil/choke/alt.

Thanks for any help
Larry



I have no idea what I am talking about, but is there a big, red button type
circuit breaker on the engine?
If so, is it tripped? Push it to reset and try again.

Eisboch

The kill switch (lanyard activated) may be open, or the lanyard off.
If so, no hot PU-sys power.
JR

On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 18:15:36 -0400, Larry W
wrote:

I'm working on a Merc 3.0 that doesn't have 12 volts, with the key on, at the
purple wire (#5 pin) at the main connector behind the engine.

The ignition switch is fine. Seems like a broken wire between the main connector
and the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't run a new wire from the ignition terminal on
the key switch to the #5 connector pin that feeds the coil/choke/alt.

Thanks for any help
Larry
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
--------------------------------------------------

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
Eisboch wrote:
"Larry W" wrote in message
...

BTW: Not to high jack my own thread but I remember seeing one of your
posts a while back that mentioned Scituate MA - do you know the
Lazarovich's?

Larry

The name isn't familiar, but then again, I don't know the full names of
most of the people I know in Scituate.

What is the name of their boat? And in which marina are they?

Eisboch
They are first cousins that unfortunately I haven't seen in a long time -
not even sure if they have a boat. The oldest son (John) was killed in
Vietnam and I believe there is a memorial for him in town somewhere.

Larry

Now the name is familiar. I remember seeing or reading about the memorial.
He was young .... 19 yo I think.
Went in the service in 1967, shortly before me.

Eisboch

On Aug 18, 6:15*pm, Larry W wrote:
I'm working on a Merc 3.0 that doesn't have 12 volts, with the key on, at the
purple wire (#5 pin) at the main connector behind the engine.

The ignition switch is fine. Seems like a broken wire between the main connector
and the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't run a new wire from the ignition terminal on
the key switch to the #5 connector pin that feeds the coil/choke/alt.

Thanks for any help
Larry

Check at the kill switch. Also there may be another harness connector
under the dash. As these connectors age they sometimes develop
corrsosion. So you might pull them apart and wirebrush the male
pins. Then plug and unplug them a few times to clean the female
side. A few wiring scenarios also have an oil pressure switch in the
circuit but that's rare.

If you have to run a new wire make sure you include the kill switch.
Otherwise the answer is yes.