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Engine Knocking
I'm almost afraid to ask this question for fear of what answers I might get
but here goes: My boat has a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine (carbureted) with 240 hours on it. It is very well taken care of. Today as I cranked it up, I let go of the key before the engine caught on and from the sound of things, I knew what had happened. The engine actually kicked backwards one stroke and sucked up some water. I figured, "no problem, this has happened before and I can handle this." I took out all of the plugs and cranked the engine to let the water blow out of the cylinders, dried the plugs and put them back in and proceeded to start the engine. The engine started but there was a pretty loud knocking sound. I shut it down to check my plug connections and to check to make sure I had not mixed up and plugged the wires back in the wrong order and everything was okay. I started it once again and still had that darned noise. Any ideas? I'm really nervous about this one. Frank |
#2
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Engine Knocking
On Thu, 4 Sep 2003 20:47:12 -0400, "Frank Taylor, Jr."
wrote: I'm almost afraid to ask this question for fear of what answers I might get but here goes: My boat has a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine (carbureted) with 240 hours on it. It is very well taken care of. Today as I cranked it up, I let go of the key before the engine caught on and from the sound of things, I knew what had happened. The engine actually kicked backwards one stroke and sucked up some water. I figured, "no problem, this has happened before and I can handle this." I took out all of the plugs and cranked the engine to let the water blow out of the cylinders, dried the plugs and put them back in and proceeded to start the engine. The engine started but there was a pretty loud knocking sound. I shut it down to check my plug connections and to check to make sure I had not mixed up and plugged the wires back in the wrong order and everything was okay. I started it once again and still had that darned noise. Any ideas? I'm really nervous about this one. Frank Frank, even a small amount of water remaining in the cylinder will raise hell with your engine. It changes the compression ratio, drastically, and can cause ring and valve problems. In a "horizontal" engine, it won't just "blow out" the exhaust. Hopefully, there is no damage to the piston, rod, or crank. Pull those plugs again, and check each cylinder for water (with a flashlight and magnifying glass, if you have to). If you have water in it, wick it out with cotton rags cut into strips, or cotton rope (cheap clothesline rope). If it knocks after this, you have a bigger problem. The hydraulic lock may have damaged bearings or the crank. ( Good luck. noah |
#3
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Engine Knocking
Frank Taylor, Jr. wrote:
I'm almost afraid to ask this question for fear of what answers I might get but here goes: My boat has a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine (carbureted) with 240 hours on it. It is very well taken care of. Today as I cranked it up, I let go of the key before the engine caught on and from the sound of things, I knew what had happened. The engine actually kicked backwards one stroke and sucked up some water. I figured, "no problem, this has happened before and I can handle this." I took out all of the plugs and cranked the engine to let the water blow out of the cylinders, dried the plugs and put them back in and proceeded to start the engine. The engine started but there was a pretty loud knocking sound. I shut it down to check my plug connections and to check to make sure I had not mixed up and plugged the wires back in the wrong order and everything was okay. I started it once again and still had that darned noise. Any ideas? I'm really nervous about this one. Frank Possibly damaged something but it might also just be the valve lifters not pumping up. You say you "dried" the plugs what? there was water all through it?? not likely but? The leads are correct?? you say you checked but ....? Check the oil, is the level right?? not down? or worse up?? If it's up the water may have been in the engine before you tried to start it & some has seeped down into the sump, is the oil milky in any way if so then it has water in it & you'll need to change it & the filter before you try again. Once you're sure it has clean oil at the right level; Start it but don't rev it up, if you have an oil pressure gauge/light after a short time make sure the oil pressure is up , if not turn it off. The water contaminated oil might have blocked the pickup if it's been sitting a while, or the milky oil gets thick almost like cream. Regardless don't persevere if there's no oil pressure because whatever the trouble it'll only get worse very quickly. Assuming it has oil pressure & is running as smoothly as a cold carbed engine does, then give it a little while to see if it is the valve lifters (they too don't like ANY water in the oil & get stuck taking a while to come good but with clean oil they will:-)) If after a couple of minutes the knocking is still there, then try to determine what it is; (i) Stuck lifters; can cause lots of noise up at the tappets, but it's a slower rate than you expect (1/2 engine speed) also the noise is at the top of the engine. Get say 4 ft of garden hose & put one end to your ear then hold the other end around the engine (be careful, belts & things are moving), you'll very quickly be able to pinpoint exactly where the noise is originating. If it is at the very top of the motor & probably spread over several cyls on both sides, then good news it probably is just stuck lifters from having some water in the oil. With clean oil & filter a little heat & they'll probably come right on their own. You could even risk increasing the revs to "slightly" above idle. (ii) More serious heavier cluncking noises; Again your hose to the ear will tell you it's originating below the very top of the engine, it will probably be localised & it's rate will probably be quite fast. With the hose you'll at least know which side & end of the engine is the cause. Then leaving the engine idling, try pulling the spark leads off the plugs in the suspect area one at a time, till the noise stops (even a bad thing, given you have oil pressure will be quiet when the plug stops firing above it). This is now potentially serious so get a compression tester from an auto parts store (a really cheap one is fine). (iii) Follow the testers instructions but generally take all the plugs out, disable the ignition, leave or manually hold the throttle wide open & crank the engine with the tester in each cyl in turn. Note (as in write down:-)) the pressures for each cyl. Don't worry about the actual numbers (particularly with a cheap tester), what you're looking for is a consistent reading over all the cyls, no more than say a 10% difference between the highest & lowest. If you get one or an adjacent pair with very low readings & that/they are the ones you found were causing the noise, sorry you need to at the very least take that head but better both heads off & find out what's going on. K |
#4
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Engine Knocking
K Smith wrote:
OOps sorry Frank, I forgot to say that if Tony has any advise different then definitely go with his, he's pretty damn good!! (the *******:-)) K .. Frank Taylor, Jr. wrote: I'm almost afraid to ask this question for fear of what answers I might get but here goes: My boat has a Volvo Penta 5.7 GS engine (carbureted) with 240 hours on it. It is very well taken care of. Today as I cranked it up, I let go of the key before the engine caught on and from the sound of things, I knew what had happened. The engine actually kicked backwards one stroke and sucked up some water. I figured, "no problem, this has happened before and I can handle this." I took out all of the plugs and cranked the engine to let the water blow out of the cylinders, dried the plugs and put them back in and proceeded to start the engine. The engine started but there was a pretty loud knocking sound. I shut it down to check my plug connections and to check to make sure I had not mixed up and plugged the wires back in the wrong order and everything was okay. I started it once again and still had that darned noise. Any ideas? I'm really nervous about this one. Frank Possibly damaged something but it might also just be the valve lifters not pumping up. You say you "dried" the plugs what? there was water all through it?? not likely but? The leads are correct?? you say you checked but ....? Check the oil, is the level right?? not down? or worse up?? If it's up the water may have been in the engine before you tried to start it & some has seeped down into the sump, is the oil milky in any way if so then it has water in it & you'll need to change it & the filter before you try again. Once you're sure it has clean oil at the right level; Start it but don't rev it up, if you have an oil pressure gauge/light after a short time make sure the oil pressure is up , if not turn it off. The water contaminated oil might have blocked the pickup if it's been sitting a while, or the milky oil gets thick almost like cream. Regardless don't persevere if there's no oil pressure because whatever the trouble it'll only get worse very quickly. Assuming it has oil pressure & is running as smoothly as a cold carbed engine does, then give it a little while to see if it is the valve lifters (they too don't like ANY water in the oil & get stuck taking a while to come good but with clean oil they will:-)) If after a couple of minutes the knocking is still there, then try to determine what it is; (i) Stuck lifters; can cause lots of noise up at the tappets, but it's a slower rate than you expect (1/2 engine speed) also the noise is at the top of the engine. Get say 4 ft of garden hose & put one end to your ear then hold the other end around the engine (be careful, belts & things are moving), you'll very quickly be able to pinpoint exactly where the noise is originating. If it is at the very top of the motor & probably spread over several cyls on both sides, then good news it probably is just stuck lifters from having some water in the oil. With clean oil & filter a little heat & they'll probably come right on their own. You could even risk increasing the revs to "slightly" above idle. (ii) More serious heavier cluncking noises; Again your hose to the ear will tell you it's originating below the very top of the engine, it will probably be localised & it's rate will probably be quite fast. With the hose you'll at least know which side & end of the engine is the cause. Then leaving the engine idling, try pulling the spark leads off the plugs in the suspect area one at a time, till the noise stops (even a bad thing, given you have oil pressure will be quiet when the plug stops firing above it). This is now potentially serious so get a compression tester from an auto parts store (a really cheap one is fine). (iii) Follow the testers instructions but generally take all the plugs out, disable the ignition, leave or manually hold the throttle wide open & crank the engine with the tester in each cyl in turn. Note (as in write down:-)) the pressures for each cyl. Don't worry about the actual numbers (particularly with a cheap tester), what you're looking for is a consistent reading over all the cyls, no more than say a 10% difference between the highest & lowest. If you get one or an adjacent pair with very low readings & that/they are the ones you found were causing the noise, sorry you need to at the very least take that head but better both heads off & find out what's going on. K |
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