Brian Nystrom wrote in message
...
Mike Hackett wrote:

Brian Nystrom wrote in message
...

You're overthinking the subject. A boat that stays on the course you
want to paddle will be the most efficient. Just use as much skeg as the
situation requires and forget about the rest.



So what would you have me think about while I'm in the office with my
head
still out in the river? Something to do with my job?

It is possible to stay on course with the boat pointing at least close
to
the direction you are going (skeg all the way down), or stay on course
with
it pointing further away from the direction you are going (less skeg).
That's the issue.

If you've got a beam wind, you're going to need to ferry into it in
order to maintain the desired course, so pointing slightly upwind is
preferable. Pointing straight or downwind will cause you to travel a
longer, parabolic course.


Of course. But again, the upwind angle to achieve a straight course is going
to vary depending on how much skeg is sticking down.

Mike

Crabbing is compensated for with navigation techniques isn't it(ie.
course setting)? It's something that you try to predict before setting
out and you make course adjustments as necessary based on changing
conditions etc. Of course if you can't maintain a straight course or a
desiered course then you've got more problems than just crabbing so
for me a kayak that tracks like a train is very important.

The bigger problem I have had is turning upwind in 25+ mph winds. I
once did a 2 mile crossing where about halfway through, ~25mph winds
came up, gusting even higher. I estimate the speed at 25+ because I
could barely make headway with maximum effort knowing that I would
have to paddle for 1 mile. The gusts were higher intensity yet. I
could see them coming by the scallop pattern on the water - then all I
could do was hold my position.

I later realized that had my kayak unintentionally turned around while
I was holding position, the probability that I would safely get it
turned back around into the wind was about zero. There was land behind
me but it was still a little unnerving. I think it shows the
importance of having a plan for changing conditions while on an open
crossing. I also try to start long crossings at daybreak or earlier
since it seems like winds usually don't come up until mid-morning.

I have the book "Fundamentals of Kayak Navigation" and it's a good
book to have. Also, if you are interested in sailing (sailboats or
other small craft) it can't hurt to take a basic navigation class as
the principles are the same for the most part.



Brian Nystrom wrote in message ...
Mike Hackett wrote:

Brian Nystrom wrote in message
...

You're overthinking the subject. A boat that stays on the course you
want to paddle will be the most efficient. Just use as much skeg as the
situation requires and forget about the rest.



So what would you have me think about while I'm in the office with my head
still out in the river? Something to do with my job?

It is possible to stay on course with the boat pointing at least close to
the direction you are going (skeg all the way down), or stay on course with
it pointing further away from the direction you are going (less skeg).
That's the issue.

If you've got a beam wind, you're going to need to ferry into it in
order to maintain the desired course, so pointing slightly upwind is
preferable. Pointing straight or downwind will cause you to travel a
longer, parabolic course.

On 30-Jun-2004, "Mike Hackett" wrote:

Huh, looks like a fin to me, kinda triangle-shaped. Whatever.

T'ain't a fin, but a flat triangular plate. Some kayaks have a fin shaped
skeg that sticks way down when fully deployed, others use the little
triangle like the Caribou S and Gulfstream.

I do have to try the ballast technique, [...]
I don't want to transport it or hump it on my shoulder with that extra
weight in there.

Get some big bottles from the recycling bin and fill them with water when
you get to the launch. Dump the water when you're done.

I'm also wondering what detriment paddling that extra weight around is when
you don't really need it. And exactly how much it changes the attitude of
the boat, does it assume a goofy bow up/stern down angle.

It'll change your trim a bit but whether it adds significant drag is another
story. If it's really significant, you've got way too much ballast. I seem
to remember folks suggesting about 20 lb (ten liters of water) in the rear
compartment. YMMV

The extra water will also increase the stability a tad.

Mike

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 30-Jun-2004, "Mike Hackett" wrote:


I do have to try the ballast technique, [...]
I don't want to transport it or hump it on my shoulder with that extra
weight in there.

Get some big bottles from the recycling bin and fill them with water when
you get to the launch. Dump the water when you're done.

I'm also wondering what detriment paddling that extra weight around is
when
you don't really need it. And exactly how much it changes the attitude
of
the boat, does it assume a goofy bow up/stern down angle.

It'll change your trim a bit but whether it adds significant drag is
another
story. If it's really significant, you've got way too much ballast. I
seem
to remember folks suggesting about 20 lb (ten liters of water) in the rear
compartment. YMMV

The extra water will also increase the stability a tad.

I've read those bladders from 5-liter wine boxes work well. Although not
easy to fill without a faucet handy. Anyway, whatever is involved is the
hassle I was talking about. After three years of rigging rudder and seats
and other stuff for my Folbot on-site, I'm really enjoying carrying this
boat to the water, plopping it in, plopping my butt in the seat, and
paddling away.

Well anyway, got a few things to try on my next voyages, keeps things
interesting. Thanks for the info, everyone.

Mike

On 1-Jul-2004, (Alex Horvath) wrote:

The bigger problem I have had is turning upwind in 25+ mph winds.[...]

I later realized that had my kayak unintentionally turned around while
I was holding position, the probability that I would safely get it
turned back around into the wind was about zero.

If you've got room, this is where weathercocking works wonders. Just
raise your skeg/rudder and let the kayak swing into the wind as you
paddle forward.

One trick is to paddle backwards and swing into line with the wind.
I tried this once when I was quite sloppy about loading and the kayak
was leecocking. It took a few of tries, but eventually worked.

Another trick is to drop your towline in the water on the windward side.
It will act as a drogue and swing your stern around. Once aligned, reel
it in so that you can reduce drag. By tossing in the water on the windward
side, the line will run downwind from the stern and maximize the turning
moment.

If edging away from the wind is risky due to waves, just edge into the
wind. Not as efficient at aiding turning, but better than staying level.

Mike

On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 04:35:05 GMT, "Mike Hackett"
wrote:



I've read those bladders from 5-liter wine boxes work well. Although not
easy to fill without a faucet handy. Anyway, whatever is involved is the
hassle I was talking about. After three years of rigging rudder and seats
and other stuff for my Folbot on-site, I'm really enjoying carrying this
boat to the water, plopping it in, plopping my butt in the seat, and
paddling away.

Gallon water jugs worked wonders for me in solo canoeing downstream
upwind. That can really suck. It only takes a minute or two at the
putin and takeout to fill and empty them. You might be okay with just
one gallon. Nothing like trying to put together a Folbot. Nothing
like even going and getting the second bag of stuff for the Folbot
down to join the first one by the putin.
--
rbc: vixen Fairly harmless

Hit reply to email. But strip out the 'invalid.'
Though I'm very slow to respond.
http://www.visi.com/~cyli

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 04:35:05 GMT, "Mike Hackett"




Gallon water jugs worked wonders for me in solo canoeing downstream
upwind. That can really suck. It only takes a minute or two at the
putin and takeout to fill and empty them. You might be okay with just
one gallon. Nothing like trying to put together a Folbot. Nothing
like even going and getting the second bag of stuff for the Folbot
down to join the first one by the putin.
--

The Caribou won't hold anything like that in the rear hatch, at least not
far back where it ought to go on either side of the skeg housing. The 2-3
liter soft drink bottles might do the job.

I progressed from assembling the Folbot onsite, to assembling at home and
cartopping, to leaving assembled strung up in the garage all in one season.
Still, there are things like seats and rudder to fumble with at the site.

Mike