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Heavy anchor for canoe?
Howdy!
I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
donquijote1954 wrote:
I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? You want an anchor that holds, which is not necessarily the same thing as a heavy anchor. There are lightweight anchors that hold quite well. And heavy anchors that don't. The primary determining factor is what sort of bottom you canoe over. The characteristics of the bottom determine the optimum anchor. That said, a basic small danforth should be fine for most situations. BTW, do not abandon your boat. It drives the first responders crazy. Thanks. //Walt |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
donquijote1954 wrote: Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! I'd suggest trying a gallon plastic jug full of sand, cement, scrap metal, or anything heavy. The plastic won't scratch up the bottom of the boat. Tie a line to the handle on the jug. In my neighbourhood we have plastic recyling so you can find plastic jugs at the curb on garbage day. Cheap to replace when necessary. In pre-plastic times we used a gallon paint can full of cement on a 16 foot fishing boat. Boating books say to put out 5-6 times a smuch line as depth, ie in 6 ft of water put out 30 ft of anchor line. That's partly to get the spokes on patented anchors to dig in but also to put some spring in the line to reduce anchor drag. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Walt wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? You want an anchor that holds, which is not necessarily the same thing as a heavy anchor. There are lightweight anchors that hold quite well. And heavy anchors that don't. The primary determining factor is what sort of bottom you canoe over. The characteristics of the bottom determine the optimum anchor. That said, a basic small danforth should be fine for most situations. Well, I got a 5.5 lbs grapnel and intend to test its hold and upsize as necessary or change to the type you mention. And they look like a formidable weapon to boot! :) By the way, I think the bottom is loose sand (Florida Intracostal) but haven't seen it. BTW, do not abandon your boat. It drives the first responders crazy. Thanks. I know but I may have seashore no more than a mile away and likely to be a block away and swimming is always a good option before rescue. THANKS! |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Wm Watt wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! I'd suggest trying a gallon plastic jug full of sand, cement, scrap metal, or anything heavy. The plastic won't scratch up the bottom of the boat. Tie a line to the handle on the jug. In my neighbourhood we have plastic recyling so you can find plastic jugs at the curb on garbage day. Cheap to replace when necessary. In pre-plastic times we used a gallon paint can full of cement on a 16 foot fishing boat. Recycling is always a good idea! :) Boating books say to put out 5-6 times a smuch line as depth, ie in 6 ft of water put out 30 ft of anchor line. That's partly to get the spokes on patented anchors to dig in but also to put some spring in the line to reduce anchor drag. So I got a 100' rope, which seemed to me twice as long as necessary, should I cut at 50'? By the way, DO I NEED A CHAIN??? |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Walt wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? You want an anchor that holds, which is not necessarily the same thing as a heavy anchor. There are lightweight anchors that hold quite well. And heavy anchors that don't. The primary determining factor is what sort of bottom you canoe over. The characteristics of the bottom determine the optimum anchor. That said, a basic small danforth should be fine for most situations. Well, you seem to be right. I quote here... Grapnel Type: This style of anchor works much like a grappling hook. It takes hold of debris or rocks at the bottom. It is ineffective on muddy or sandy bottoms but works fairly well out at the jetties. Be prepared to loose this anchor though. On the other hand... Danforth/Fortress type anchor: This type of anchor is one of the best anchors for holding in many different types of bottom composition. It weighs less than other anchors yet holds better due to its design. These anchors usually perform better when a short length of chain is used as a leader before the rope is attached. http://www.texasgulfcoastfishing.com/anchors.htm Thanks. So I guess I'll go and exchange before it's too late. |
How about this anchor?
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Heavy anchor for canoe?
It sounds like me, though I'm not fishing and I don't mind the
swinging... "Once you've found biting fish, you may want to anchor the canoe in position. When anchoring a canoe use two anchors to minimize the boat from swinging (unless you intentionally want to do so to fish a wider area). To properly anchor a canoe, put one off the bow and the other directly off the stern. Do not tie anchors off the sides of a canoe as this can lead the canoe turning over in heavy waves. Mushroom or river anchors between eight- to 15-pounds coupled with nylon rope will work for most canoes. When tying off anchors use quick-release knots so slack line can be let out in the event of unexpected waves surprising you to ensure the canoe doesn't become swamped." http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...objectID=30095 So one on the bow with short chain should do. Preferably Danforth. |
How about this anchor?
donquijote1954 wrote:
In 4 lbs? Is this the same as Danforth? http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Yes, that is a Danforth anchor. You don't need a big one for a canoe. //Walt |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On 8 Nov 2006 14:00:43 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: It sounds like me, though I'm not fishing and I don't mind the swinging... "Once you've found biting fish, you may want to anchor the canoe in position. When anchoring a canoe use two anchors to minimize the boat from swinging (unless you intentionally want to do so to fish a wider area). To properly anchor a canoe, put one off the bow and the other directly off the stern. Do not tie anchors off the sides of a canoe as this can lead the canoe turning over in heavy waves. Anchors at both ends seems risky to me unless one has a lot of slack rope. I'd not do it myself, even with slack. Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On 8 Nov 2006 09:21:35 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: BTW, do not abandon your boat. It drives the first responders crazy. Thanks. And a swamped boat without any sort of lights or flags can be a danger to other craft. I know but I may have seashore no more than a mile away and likely to be a block away and swimming is always a good option before rescue. Not generally recommended, but it's your life. You might want to take a look and thought at what kind of shore and what you'll have to hike / wade through once you get to the shore before you find civilization, too. If you're on the Inter Coastal Waterway, there should be traffic along to help you out fairly soon, as opposed to swimming and then hiking or wading. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
How about this anchor?
donquijote1954 wrote:
In 4 lbs? Is this the same as Danforth? Yes. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote:
Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. Until the wind/tide changes. If a river has a steady current, you'd be fine. Boats routinely anchor with two anchors to prevent drift. You can have one off each end or two in a V at one end. Perfectly safe unless you use 20' of rode at low tide in a 40' tide zone. And never anchor beam on to the surf :-) Mike |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 01:26:29 -0500, Michael Daly
wrote: Cyli wrote: Wind or tide or current should keep a canoe pointed / placed in one direction for quite a while with just one anchor. Until the wind/tide changes. That's why I said 'for some time.' Nothing, particularly tide and wind, lasts forever in the same direction. If a river has a steady current, you'd be fine. Boats routinely anchor with two anchors to prevent drift. You can have one off each end or two in a V at one end. Perfectly safe unless you use 20' of rode at low tide in a 40' tide zone. And never anchor beam on to the surf :-) Me for the two in a vee at one end. But then I have mostly been a river camper. I know people have done the short rope / higher tide thing, though it's hard to imagine that they managed to get to a place where they could anchor without understanding about tide, but after what I've seen on the river not understanding (and not willing to understand, when one tries to explain) about current and wind, I have to believe it. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
How about this anchor?
Walt wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: In 4 lbs? Is this the same as Danforth? http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Yes, that is a Danforth anchor. You don't need a big one for a canoe. //Walt Good. I wonder though if this, which sells on requiring 70% less rope, is worth the price difference... http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Having 30' rather than 100' makes sense. Is there something to have the rope neat and untangled? |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote: On 8 Nov 2006 09:21:35 -0800, "donquijote1954" wrote: BTW, do not abandon your boat. It drives the first responders crazy. Thanks. And a swamped boat without any sort of lights or flags can be a danger to other craft. Not much: It's a 14' plastic canoe. I can leave something on though. Gee, I need a flag! Something with a clamp. I know but I may have seashore no more than a mile away and likely to be a block away and swimming is always a good option before rescue. Not generally recommended, but it's your life. You might want to take a look and thought at what kind of shore and what you'll have to hike / wade through once you get to the shore before you find civilization, too. If you're on the Inter Coastal Waterway, there should be traffic along to help you out fairly soon, as opposed to swimming and then hiking or wading. The "civilization" is right the the mansions of the Rich and Famous. Unless they receive me a rifle and/or dogs. :( |
How about this anchor?
donquijote1954 wrote:
Good. I wonder though if this, which sells on requiring 70% less rope, is worth the price difference... http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults I've never seen one of those in action, but I'd be skeptical. As a rule of thumb you want about a 7:1 scope for an anchor. This much scope ensures that the pull on the anchor is always horizontal, never vertical. A danforth anchor is designed to hold with a horizontal pull, but come free with a vertical pull - that's how you un-anchor yourself when it's time to get going again. This thing claims to hold with up to a 45 degree pull. Seems to me that if this is actually true (as I say, I'm skeptical) it might make it hard to retrieve. Having 30' rather than 100' makes sense. Is there something to have the rope neat and untangled? Yes. Learn to coil lines. And don't buy cheap-ass lines that hockle and tie themselves in knots. BTW, you should probably have a throw line that's 100' long and floats. I'd invest in this long before spending money on an anchor. //Walt |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
I'd be careful trying to swim very far off and ocean shore. I was surprized once while swimming in the surf how far the undertow(?) carried me away. I had to swim hard to get back to the beach. Dumb tourist. I'm a freshwater boater myself but I've read that a boat rising and falling on ocean swells can drag it's anchor if the line is too short. When a storm hit our exposed moorings at a local freshwater sailing club a lot of boats dragged their moorings and those were large concrete blocks. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Wm Watt wrote: I'd be careful trying to swim very far off and ocean shore. I was surprized once while swimming in the surf how far the undertow(?) carried me away. I had to swim hard to get back to the beach. Dumb tourist. I'm a freshwater boater myself but I've read that a boat rising and falling on ocean swells can drag it's anchor if the line is too short. When a storm hit our exposed moorings at a local freshwater sailing club a lot of boats dragged their moorings and those were large concrete blocks. I've got a sit-on-top which would have all the flotation I need and I just need to jump back on, but the canoe, though it floats when swamped, I guess I would'n care to bail out. The canoe I only use in the Intracoastal, of course. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Attach some ethafoam flotation to the insides of the canoe along the sides
in the middle (gluing it works). That makes it pretty stable when it's flooded. After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. --Bob G. "donquijote1954" wrote in message oups.com... Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? Thanks! |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Well, I went back to the store and thought the Danforth was too bulky and sharp so I bought a 10lb Navy type anchor. It got the flukes, but not the bulk. http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catal...=SearchResults Would I need a chain for it??? One situation I may encounter where I need a strong anchor is when I'm facing a strong wind and the waves flood the boat too much, so I throw anchor, bail out, and keep on going. This happens quite often in winter time when I'm returning home. We are two people and one can't keep the canoe straight into the wind. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
"Bob Gramann" wrote in message news:i746h.1510$m72.297@trnddc03... "donquijote1954" wrote in message oups.com... Howdy! I'm considering a heavy anchor (perhaps 6.5 lbs or heavier) such that if --for example-- my partner gets tired in heavy wind I can have the canoe stay put while she rests. Or if I must abandon the flooded canoe and swim, I can come back and retrieve it at the same spot the next day. What do I need? After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? -- -Don Ever had one of those days where you just felt like: http://cosmoslair.com/BadDay.html ? (Eating the elephant outside the box, one paradigm at a time) |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 12:10:04 -0800, "Don Freeman"
wrote: Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? I did after a couple of years of canoeing. I never saw or heard of anyone else in MN using one in a canoe, but I did mostly quiet waters. I needed it mainly because I don't turn my canoe over when I camp, so if there's a storm, I had to bail or dump it over. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Bob Gramann wrote: Attach some ethafoam flotation to the insides of the canoe along the sides in the middle (gluing it works). That makes it pretty stable when it's flooded. After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. It has the foam, only that I didn't know I could paddle it. I guess I can try this techniques in calm water. Thanks. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Don Freeman wrote: After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? True. But will it work when the canoe is fully flooded and perhaps more waves are splashing on it? I guess I got to try to technique too when I get the pump. Before I had a sit on top only so I must get acquainted with sit ins. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote: On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 12:10:04 -0800, "Don Freeman" wrote: Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? I did after a couple of years of canoeing. I never saw or heard of anyone else in MN using one in a canoe, but I did mostly quiet waters. I needed it mainly because I don't turn my canoe over when I camp, so if there's a storm, I had to bail or dump it over. Now that you mention it, can it rain hard enough to overwhelm a canoe even if you got a pump? Are there foot pumps? |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
"donquijote1954" wrote in message oups.com... Cyli wrote: On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 12:10:04 -0800, "Don Freeman" wrote: Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? I did after a couple of years of canoeing. I never saw or heard of anyone else in MN using one in a canoe, but I did mostly quiet waters. I needed it mainly because I don't turn my canoe over when I camp, so if there's a storm, I had to bail or dump it over. Now that you mention it, can it rain hard enough to overwhelm a canoe even if you got a pump? Are there foot pumps? .. Yes, as well as electric ones. I've seen both types outfitted in kayaks. But both do require modifications to the boat itself, ie: a port cut in the hull for water outtake. The foot pump requires being mounted on a bulkhead (plastic boats may not be suitable) so that it has a rigid surface to apply foot pressure to, don't know if there is any way to mount one in a canoe though, maybe against a forward floatation chamber? Or maybe mounted on the floor, as canoeists are sitting in an upright postion. http://www.seakayakermag.com/2003/03Feb/pump02.htm Electric (submersible) may be a better option as there doesn't seem to be as much modification to the boat needed (especially if you don't have a bulkhead or anything similar): http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0001/168/75/11 (or: http://tinyurl.com/y462k7 ) Considering how much more water a canoe can hold as compared to a sea kayak with stern and bow watertight compartments, you probably will want something with a bit more pumping power then the cylindric handheld type most kayakers use. -- -Don Ever had one of those days where you just felt like: http://cosmoslair.com/BadDay.html ? (Eating the elephant outside the box, one paradigm at a time) |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
donquijote1954 wrote:
Now that you mention it, can it rain hard enough to overwhelm a canoe even if you got a pump? A heavy rainstorm is an inch of two. Do the math. Are there foot pumps? Yes. //Walt |
How about this anchor?
Walt wrote: BTW, you should probably have a throw line that's 100' long and floats. I'd invest in this long before spending money on an anchor. //Walt Hey, I already got a poly rope that floats (but bought it for another reason: the thing to roll it up on). Now what? ;) |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 13:04:38 -0500, Walt
wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Now that you mention it, can it rain hard enough to overwhelm a canoe even if you got a pump? A heavy rainstorm is an inch of two. Do the math. Are there foot pumps? Yes. Foot pump was what I had. Never fastened it down, just pumped. If there was a lot in the canoe, I bailed until it was lower, dumped it (as I had it beached during heavy rains and was in my tent, sleeping.) a bit and then pumped. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On 14 Nov 2006 08:38:55 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: Don Freeman wrote: After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? True. But will it work when the canoe is fully flooded and perhaps more waves are splashing on it? No. I'd be bailing with one of my gallon water bottles that I carry empty for possible ballast and would generally had a cut down one around. If it hadn't floated off, when I'd have to cut down one of the ones I kept tied. Gallon bailing would be way faster than my foot pump. I'd then be paddling, unless the wind was against, in which case those ballast bottles would become a drift anchor right away. I guess I got to try to technique too when I get the pump. Before I had a sit on top only so I must get acquainted with sit ins. Start slowly? -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote: On 14 Nov 2006 08:38:55 -0800, "donquijote1954" wrote: Don Freeman wrote: After you turn it upright and climb in, you can splash out a lot of the water with your paddle and paddle that boat into shore (you can still paddle a swamped boat). No need to leave it. Do canoeists not bring bilge pumps out with them? True. But will it work when the canoe is fully flooded and perhaps more waves are splashing on it? No. I'd be bailing with one of my gallon water bottles that I carry empty for possible ballast and would generally had a cut down one around. If it hadn't floated off, when I'd have to cut down one of the ones I kept tied. Gallon bailing would be way faster than my foot pump. I'd then be paddling, unless the wind was against, in which case those ballast bottles would become a drift anchor right away. You mean to scoop water out? But didn't get the last part about ballast bottles. I guess I got to try to technique too when I get the pump. Before I had a sit on top only so I must get acquainted with sit ins. Start slowly? Yep. I just love it for different conditions than SOTs. Plenty of storage, super comfortable (having back support) and stylish. Only when mildly windy though. It's the Mad River Canoe Adventure 14. It even has a lip to put a skirt around but the size is humongous, and haven't found one so far. However, I haven't contacted the manufacturer. If I should bother to get one. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On 15 Nov 2006 10:22:47 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: You mean to scoop water out? But didn't get the last part about ballast bottles. Since at least half my canoeing is downstream (more if I can talk someone into a shuttle), if I put more weight in the canoe, it sinks farther down into the river and the current takes it better. This is a very good thing when your favorite river runs to the south and the wind comes from the south and you're headed south. So when the wind is against by enough to make the paddling hard, I pull up on shore, fill up with water the bunch of old plastic milk jugs I keep tied together in the bow, cap them up and the bow lowers, offering less wind resistance and more current pull. Ballast at about 10 pounds per jug. Easily dumped when I land. When it's really bad, it's hot out, and I want a swim anyway, I get out and let my body in deeper current pull the canoe along behind me. I am aware I could get hurt that way, btw. I know there's junk in there, like dead sunken trees. I stay in the boat channel where it's almost entirely safe. I don't do it in backwaters where things can get really ugly on top of the water and worse under. Naturally, I leave them empty when going upstream with a south wind. But, filled and hung from a rope from the stern, they make a good drogue when I don't want to go anywhere quickly. Especially if I'm going downstream and there's a strong north wind behind me. But that's so rare that I can only recall about 3 occasions. More often just because I want to do a slow float and enjoy. Sometimes they're an anchor, if the water is shallow and I want to stop. And I do know about turning the canoe around and paddling from the bow seat facing the stern, which is then leading. I had to explain it at least once to a ranger who thought I'd put my stickers on the wrong end of the canoe. A wonderful piece of advice I got on one of these paddling forums. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote: On 15 Nov 2006 10:22:47 -0800, "donquijote1954" wrote: You mean to scoop water out? But didn't get the last part about ballast bottles. Since at least half my canoeing is downstream (more if I can talk someone into a shuttle), if I put more weight in the canoe, it sinks farther down into the river and the current takes it better. This is a very good thing when your favorite river runs to the south and the wind comes from the south and you're headed south. Thank you. Though I don't have a river and I do have strong currents, and would have thought the opposite, that I should want to the bow to raise because of the waves, but then the wind gets it so... I don't know now. |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
On 16 Nov 2006 10:54:53 -0800, "donquijote1954"
wrote: Cyli wrote: On 15 Nov 2006 10:22:47 -0800, "donquijote1954" wrote: You mean to scoop water out? But didn't get the last part about ballast bottles. Since at least half my canoeing is downstream (more if I can talk someone into a shuttle), if I put more weight in the canoe, it sinks farther down into the river and the current takes it better. This is a very good thing when your favorite river runs to the south and the wind comes from the south and you're headed south. Thank you. Though I don't have a river and I do have strong currents, and would have thought the opposite, that I should want to the bow to raise because of the waves, but then the wind gets it so... I don't know now. Never fought a wind that hard with current going my way and wind against. I suspect it'd be a day I'd either never take off to paddle and either drive home from the putin or, if already on the river, I'd stay in my tent until the wind went down. Waves high enough to come over the bow are no place / time to for people like me to paddle. For one thing, all it takes is a bit of a turn to have the side on to the wind and it's an oopsy over dump situation. I keep my stuff mostly tied down, but getting a swamped canoe and gear to shore in ugly weather isn't my thing. -- r.bc: vixen Speaker to squirrels, willow watcher, etc.. Often taunted by trout. Almost entirely harmless. Really. http://www.visi.com/~cyli |
Heavy anchor for canoe?
Cyli wrote: Thank you. Though I don't have a river and I do have strong currents, and would have thought the opposite, that I should want to the bow to raise because of the waves, but then the wind gets it so... I don't know now. Never fought a wind that hard with current going my way and wind against. I suspect it'd be a day I'd either never take off to paddle and either drive home from the putin or, if already on the river, I'd stay in my tent until the wind went down. Waves high enough to come over the bow are no place / time to for people like me to paddle. For one thing, all it takes is a bit of a turn to have the side on to the wind and it's an oopsy over dump situation. I keep my stuff mostly tied down, but getting a swamped canoe and gear to shore in ugly weather isn't my thing. -- It's a likely scenario in which I go out in a fine day, and come back the next day when is windy like hell. Be ready to spend a few days out there, or face the waves, may be a choice. |
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